tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post826642419717619402..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: Getting Started on the Gray Suit + Thoughts about ThreadPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger62125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-3406308166041846052013-05-08T08:02:29.174-04:002013-05-08T08:02:29.174-04:00Just wanted to add that, as far as i know, Guterma...Just wanted to add that, as far as i know, Gutermann threads are always 2-ply and Mettler has 3-ply threads which should be much stronger and more suitable to use is clothes.<br />Also the 3-ply thread is rounder than the 2-ply (ask the nearest spinner and he\she will tell you !)Shmuliknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-63024857314573526552013-05-06T13:32:38.705-04:002013-05-06T13:32:38.705-04:00Me too. Whatever I have that matches so i don'...Me too. Whatever I have that matches so i don't have to to out to buy thread. I have never had any difficulty with the different makers of the thread I have. I guess if I start looking for the problem I will find it. Alex in Californiahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13096904792274897292noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-10647201302959061112013-05-05T08:08:18.701-04:002013-05-05T08:08:18.701-04:00I remember reading something (could be blog post o...I remember reading something (could be blog post or magazine article or ??) about a sewing machine repair artist fixing problems by changing from Coats to Gutermann or Metler. I have never used anything else since. ElleChttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16656569539140359204noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-47598769867772137292013-05-04T16:42:26.231-04:002013-05-04T16:42:26.231-04:00Peter, the only thread I've had a problem with...Peter, the only thread I've had a problem with was Coat's & Clark 100% cotton. It was noticeably irregular in thickness and broke repeatedly from only the tension of the machine. I told C&C customer service and I received replacement thread - in exactly the same (unusual) color - about two weeks later. By then, of course, I had long ago bought replacement thread from another manufacturer. Since then I've steered away from C&C 100% cotton; I've never had a problem with their poly thread.<br />James McInnisUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01364398998677238370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5828145644005074832013-05-03T17:10:50.054-04:002013-05-03T17:10:50.054-04:00Threads are different, but if it matters depends.....Threads are different, but if it matters depends...<br /><br />In Germany Gütermann "Allesnäher" is the standard thread you will get pretty everywhere. (Most of the threads here are polyester, cotton or silk are kind of "specialty".) It's a decent thread and you can't hardly go wrong with it.<br /><br />My personal preference is Alterfil. It's a German company and they still produce everything here also and they do mostly threads for industrial production. But some years ago they opened a webshop and are available for everyone since then. They have the best choice of colors available (437 standard colors), different sizes/weights (I prefer thinner threads than the standard 100 for many tasks, 120 or even 150 for fince sewing or lingery, but they also have thicker ones for topstitiching jeans. And I have used it also to crochet or knit "jewelry" with it.) and their specialty is the coating. If you iron it, the thread kind of "glues" to itself where the threads cross within the seam. That adds stability. I heard even more in serging, but I don't have a serger, so I never tested this. Also the thread is extremely smooth and nearly lint free. I have to clean out my sewing machine more seldom than when using other threads. <br /><br />My personal number two would be Amann/Mettler/Saba (Same company). Their thread also is smoother than Gütermann.<br /><br />I've used DMC (France) several times with very mixed results. Some were good, others had visible irregularities and tangled a lot in my machine.<br /><br />Coats I had a few also, they were all fine, but didn't use it often enough to really say something. Same for Ackermann. <br /><br />I've also used a lot of no name cheapo yarn in my sewing life. And frankly most was okay, gave more lint to the machine than the good brands. But otherwise did sew okay. Only few were good for nothing, breaking every 10 cm, tangling in the machine.... <br /><br />If it matters depends. On most materials not too much. (Except if you are lazy like me and don't want to clean out your machine too often...). There are few situations with some materials where it does matter. If you sew chiffon or silk satin you want the finest and smoothes thread you can get (along with the finest needles possible) to avoid puckering. If you are sewing lingery and combine elastic, spandex and plushy wire casing... very differnet materials, dense ones with elastic and soft ones... then sometimes the thread can make the difference. Or if you are sewing bags and use strong material and very densely woven material for your straps, have many, many layers... thread can make the difference.<br /><br />But in most garment sewing, on woo, cotton, linen, poly-blends... as long as it runs smooth in the machine it will not make a visible difference. That is at least my experience.nowakhttp://nowak.blog.hobbyschneiderin24.net/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-70617727780560504242013-05-03T15:48:15.173-04:002013-05-03T15:48:15.173-04:00I stopped buying Mettler when the thread kept brea...I stopped buying Mettler when the thread kept breaking. It was a verigated spool and I was machine quilting at the time. I have used Gutterman for clothes and for piecing. I usually use C&C dual duty to sew clothes (using my Singer Rocketeer.)lwhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08731797783816953087noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-48624341588931506322013-05-03T15:34:23.523-04:002013-05-03T15:34:23.523-04:00My older machines can take almost any thread, but ...My older machines can take almost any thread, but my newer computer machine shreds Coats and Clark endlessly. It does better with the good quality vintage thread. I have never had a problem with vintage thread and I use tons of the stuff. But the computerized machine doesn't stitch nearly as well as the older models. And it is impossible to make a knit garment on it. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-33045251452797914822013-05-03T15:30:14.763-04:002013-05-03T15:30:14.763-04:00I do use Coats and Clark if I have a color already...I do use Coats and Clark if I have a color already in my stash, but when I buy thread anymore I always buy Gutterman. One of the primary reasons I prefer it is because I do a lot of hand work, and it's much nicer to deal with for that purpose. They also have a side selection of 100% cotton threads, which I use (as a reenactor) for any 18th century things I make. If my clothes fade or stain then the thread fades and stains to match, instead of remaining it's bright polyester self, and 100% cotton thread is easier to find and MUCH easier to work with than 100% linen thread. Eviehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03019171892695902270noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-8700226826728684582013-05-03T15:20:45.046-04:002013-05-03T15:20:45.046-04:00I generally use Guterman, but I love Mettler's...I generally use Guterman, but I love Mettler's 2 ply cotton embroidery thread. It's wonderful for very light fabrics. I recently bought some Gutterman Mara 30 toptsitching thread and there is a major difference in quality compared to the jeans topstitching thread I had from Atlanta Thread. You can easily see the smoothness of the Gutterman while the jeans thread has visible short fibers sticking out of the thread.Nancy Khttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34155907884868569612013-05-03T15:05:24.424-04:002013-05-03T15:05:24.424-04:00I use Gutermann, because I want all the spools to ...I use Gutermann, because I want all the spools to look uniform on my rack. Seriously. But also, when I worked for Butterick/Vogue long ago, I sampled them all, because we had them all, and Gutermann became my favorite. Sheen, strength, smoothness, spool size, etc.mimi jacksonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09046101113822427313noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-38999506631728520702013-05-03T14:34:21.460-04:002013-05-03T14:34:21.460-04:00I usually don't have a lot of choice unless I ...I usually don't have a lot of choice unless I buy online but thread is one thing that I do not like to buy online because of the need to match it as closely as possible to the fabric. <br /><br />I haven't ever had any problem with any thread I've ever used sewing on the machine but I definitely notice with hand sewing. Nearly two decades ago when I lived on the east coast there was a store that had Molnyke (not sure about the spelling) a German brand of thread and I was hooked on it. It was strong, smooth and, miraculously, never got knots when using it for hand sewing. To this day, I greatly miss it. Lynnhttp://www.lynnspace.com/blog/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-45913501247050113452013-05-03T14:32:46.107-04:002013-05-03T14:32:46.107-04:00The only problem I've ever had with thread is ...The only problem I've ever had with thread is when Coats & Clark came out with 100% polyester thread in the 70s. The stuff sprang off the spool like wire! *eek* Neither my mother's 1946-ish Singer nor my Singer Stylist (ca. 1971) could handle it!<br /><br />I do prefer long-staple threads to short-staple threads, so I tend to prefer Gutermann or Mettler. I also loved Molnlycke thread when it was available. Coats & Clark seems to work well these days--no wire effect!<br /><br />I currently use EuroPro, Simplicity, Babylock and my mother's vintage Singer machines.<br /><br /><br />TajaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-59815764577685771192013-05-03T13:33:06.308-04:002013-05-03T13:33:06.308-04:00It's funny that sewing books devote pages to w...It's funny that sewing books devote pages to which threads are best for which fabrics - for me it's all about what my machine will put up with. It jams up with Coats & Clark. Gutermann gives it fuzz balls. So I've pretty much settled on Metrosene as the only one that will get me and the machine through a project without fits. Katrina Blanchallehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03300264690284771712noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81712612174943935842013-05-03T11:24:43.710-04:002013-05-03T11:24:43.710-04:00Agree with poster about the factory cones of spun ...Agree with poster about the factory cones of spun poly-use loads of industrial thread for projects. I have all sort of new and vintage machines including berninas and pfaffs. If I am topstitching or buttonholing something really special I will break out the fancy thread but haven't ever had issues one way or the other. For every day stuff,muslins, home dec gobbling up threadalong with the serger and coverstitch machine definitely the factory cones of proper type. You are sitting right there where the garment district has those bargains in every thing sewing wise so I'd take advantage of it. I do keep my machines cleaned and service when needed but I haven't had any issues with the big cones of spun poly all purpose and serger types I have here. If I'm sewing a muslin from a bed sheet or junk fabric no way am I paying several dollars for a teeny spool of thread.mssewcrazyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08610005723483105088noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-20833826259631572692013-05-03T10:49:29.996-04:002013-05-03T10:49:29.996-04:00I share the same affinity for cotton threads, and ...I share the same affinity for cotton threads, and I love Aurifil. I also love (when I can afford it) silk thread for machine quilting, especially the 70 wt. You can knot and bury the thread or backstitch, it's so fine, you can't see it. C&C Star is *so* linty, I'm using it up and won't buy more. It'll be Superior or Aurifillwhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08731797783816953087noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-79727283132115238192013-05-03T09:23:49.141-04:002013-05-03T09:23:49.141-04:00Peter,
whow, is is promising to be a very nice su...Peter,<br /><br />whow, is is promising to be a very nice suit indeed! Love the topstiching, like so many other posters.<br />Like you, I use all sorts of threads, but I must say my sewing machine is very fussy indeed and low quality thread will disintegrate, often after only a few stitches. So for a no fuss approach Gutermann is my go-to brand - but I live in Germany and that is basically the only properly branded thread available in normal shops.<br />I have used (gasp again ;-)) serger thread on my sewing machine too - sometimes it works, sometimes you will hear me shout and scream...<br /><br />One of your recent posts has made me think about buying a vintage machine. Now you can't get me off ebay... See what you did ;-)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-62719979278815199492013-05-03T09:00:12.450-04:002013-05-03T09:00:12.450-04:00Probably. I looked at a pair of formal suit pants...Probably. I looked at a pair of formal suit pants I have and they're pick-stitched at roughly 1/4". To my eye the stitching is less obtrusive at the very edge (in real life, barely visible at all). Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-46116977910532617612013-05-03T08:52:59.041-04:002013-05-03T08:52:59.041-04:00Hey Peter,
Really neat topstitching! BUT shouldnt ...Hey Peter,<br />Really neat topstitching! BUT shouldnt the topstitching on the front pocket be a bit wider? like around 1/4 inches. At least thats how we do it here in Estonia - topsticthing on suit pant front pockets is 0.7 cm from the fold...<br />And thats what miss Jane Rhinehart says in her book "How to make men's clothes"Aunty Maimuhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13924032493704361402noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-50553919401742246032013-05-03T08:48:44.481-04:002013-05-03T08:48:44.481-04:00I use Mettler and Guterman all of the time. I hav...I use Mettler and Guterman all of the time. I have C&C and will buy it on occasion if the color match is there. My favorite is Mettler Metroscene. I also use DMC as well.Carolhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02595297306976390158noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-42620338956164320452013-05-03T08:30:34.611-04:002013-05-03T08:30:34.611-04:00I think vintage machines are less fussy about thre...I think vintage machines are less fussy about thread. I have friends with new electronic machines, and they jam up on lesser quality thread.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5011322977311284182013-05-03T08:22:32.747-04:002013-05-03T08:22:32.747-04:00I pretty much always use Coats & Clark. Guterm...I pretty much always use Coats & Clark. Guterman causes my machine to have a hissy fit. My sister actually had the same problem with Guterman on HER machine recently and I realized that it's like putting premium gasoline in an economy car. More expensive machines demand more expensive thread but mine is a Janome (sister's is a Brother) and they prefer the cheap stuff.Jonihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00916595282859161595noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-66200413115542229412013-05-03T08:12:29.431-04:002013-05-03T08:12:29.431-04:00It is. The darker colors take more dye and are the...It is. The darker colors take more dye and are therefore possibly thicker. This is why it is advised that machine tensions be set with the same thread in the needle and bobbin when doing repairs. Obviously if you are doing a garment you want to use what best represents the work you are doing.DreinPAnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-45903955655081640782013-05-03T07:57:12.439-04:002013-05-03T07:57:12.439-04:00wait...you can't use serger thread in your sew...wait...you can't use serger thread in your sewing machine? eep.<br /><br />like a previous commenter said, my featherweight will stitch with anything. but i love metrosene, and have been slowly working though my c&c to get more of it. i do like c&c over gutterman, though. maybe i keep getting bad batches but the quality is never what i expect it to be-- and the teeth on the spool ALWAYS catch the thread when i'm on my kenmore.marcy harriell | oonaballoonahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07586073125331744719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-46670788223426309072013-05-03T07:39:22.153-04:002013-05-03T07:39:22.153-04:00I haven't noticed much difference between the ...I haven't noticed much difference between the more expensive poly threads with my modern sewing machine- but it's a sturdy basic model not a computerised wunderkind. I think the cheaper no-name thread snaps more often than the more expensive stuff and I know it snarls more often when I hand sew. I also think that colour does make a difference. With my overlocker white and light thread seems to cause fewer problems than dark. I've just bought a couple of cones of navy, and I swear that it feels chunkier than the white thread in the same brand, even thought weight etc is identical! Cleverclogshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07168361912898524778noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-50680144323961140082013-05-03T07:19:08.588-04:002013-05-03T07:19:08.588-04:00I use Gutermann too, and it'll sound silly but...I use Gutermann too, and it'll sound silly but years ago when i was first learning how to sew, my mom told me to get their brand 'because it was better', and i've simply been using it ever since ;) I don't worry too much about price, as i'm a club member at the local sewing shop and stock up when there's a good sale on. Strychninehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00623151944250074226noreply@blogger.com