tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post6704152647895411394..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: The (Confusing) World of Vintage Pattern ReissuesPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-18015231933355061202017-01-24T22:56:06.553-05:002017-01-24T22:56:06.553-05:00It's nearly impossible to find an actual vinta...It's nearly impossible to find an actual vintage pattern in my size, but the reproduction patterns normally are available in my size. I'd LOVE to sew a real vintage pattern, but I doubt I'd ever manage to find one in my size (or close enough to adjust to fit me)Andiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07730357796719636795noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-30526231222407593312013-10-19T09:33:30.247-04:002013-10-19T09:33:30.247-04:00Amen to that!I have both vintage and repro pattern...Amen to that!I have both vintage and repro patterns but find that often the vintage are not the size I need whereas multi-size repros do the job.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-66454063990473708082013-10-19T09:26:20.645-04:002013-10-19T09:26:20.645-04:00The underwear was very different in those days. Up...The underwear was very different in those days. Up to and including the 50s many women wore corsets and the bras were a very different shape too.Possibly the retro have been modified a little to fit modern, less corseted bodies?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-72140317102829772752013-09-18T08:23:20.976-04:002013-09-18T08:23:20.976-04:00Definitely find someone experienced who can work w...Definitely find someone experienced who can work with you, Olliver.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-4074820033823878842013-09-15T05:01:12.511-04:002013-09-15T05:01:12.511-04:00I ONLY want to sew vintage as I can't fit into...I ONLY want to sew vintage as I can't fit into any vintage clothes (those ladies were SMALL! and I'm 5'10" and not a stick) so the re-issues appeal to me mostly because as a beginner I don't know how to re-grade a pattern. I'm just learning how to sew & fit a regular commercial sewing pattern to my body. I took a special class on it and with the teacher's help and measurements we adjusted a Simplicity dress pattern to: Open the bust darts to make room for a larger bosom, Widen the back across my shoulders, Lengthen both the torso and the skirt but this was marked and fairly easy, and make the waist piece smaller, but it didn't fit even with the teacher's help! So, understandably I'm petrified of buying an old, 1-size only pattern w/o seam allowances, that may assume I know things I don't. But mostly it's the grading the pattern to my size. I think I need a mannequin 1st and more classes.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01059801380842010053noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-74046076846240543852013-05-04T15:37:54.751-04:002013-05-04T15:37:54.751-04:00Ive fallen in love with the 40's and 50's ...Ive fallen in love with the 40's and 50's styles.they have truly unique details that we dont see today.I am a plus size so the reprints are easy but ive also bought some original patterns that im going to learn to size up.The unique details can also be a bit advanced for the audience that modern patterns seem to be aimed at.Im going to enjoy sewing them on my 3 vintage singer machines too LOL,another item that a seems to be better older:)mitch1066https://www.blogger.com/profile/01005849905289388643noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-1270609603520231032012-11-05T21:41:35.935-05:002012-11-05T21:41:35.935-05:00I've never seen a reissue of the things that I...I've never seen a reissue of the things that I really want to buy, namely blouses and men's boxers. I've had okay luck with reissues of dresses, but for the most part really prefer working with the beautiful 40s and 50s patterns that I occasionally find at the Goodwill for 99c. I think that the ease is more honest in the older patterns.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-27662270146605848072012-10-21T14:17:41.061-04:002012-10-21T14:17:41.061-04:00Another issue that hasn't been addressed in co...Another issue that hasn't been addressed in comments is that in the case of a number of pattern companies and I know for certain regarding Vogue is that the original plates were destroyed after printing. The pattern companies rely on collectors in order to be able to re-issue their patterns. <br /><br />Without this its possible that the original patterns would not be archived or preserved at all. As well for those of us in the UK or other parts of Europe there is little access to cheap second-hand patterns and the re-issues are far more economical.Bonaparte O Coonassahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14332350636689941604noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-69339537147777231322012-10-18T21:29:43.250-04:002012-10-18T21:29:43.250-04:00I've been looking for WWII era British militar...I've been looking for WWII era British military blouse patterns, because I wear a kilt most days and the modern longer jackets just look funny.Donald O'Blogginhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11247595336590316393noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-67220900652484651642012-10-16T21:54:41.071-04:002012-10-16T21:54:41.071-04:00I've had very good experience with the Butteri...I've had very good experience with the Butterick reissues, though they do need careful fitting. Not the walkaway dress, though, it's awful. But I especially love 5605. The modern pattern envelope is uninspiring, but the dress is ADORABLE. Lady Epsilonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11281419379992599515noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-69890283423361745512012-10-12T20:28:02.088-04:002012-10-12T20:28:02.088-04:00I think that the put the seam allowances on to mak...I think that the put the seam allowances on to make it easier for people to do tissue fitting and to accurately measure what the final measurements will be in the finished garment.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-82842687230688481752012-10-08T05:01:11.200-04:002012-10-08T05:01:11.200-04:00I don't own any originals but several of the r...I don't own any originals but several of the repros, three I have made up & been very happy with & one more is waiting, the waiting one is the Simplicity 1777 that you show & I am certainly looking forward to making it!!<br /> I find vintage patterns in general are better because they actually fit which seems to be a novelty these days.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-49224843111275786132012-10-07T01:06:51.922-04:002012-10-07T01:06:51.922-04:00When I saw your images of the Vogue S-4623 and the...When I saw your images of the Vogue S-4623 and then the reissue as 2536, my immediate thought was "Of course you didn't buy it. The cover art is terrible. It's very-offputting." In the original, the green looks like vintage fabric because it was contemporary at the time. This woman has been replaced with a line drawing. The main model on the original has an elegant face, with the "original Barbie" type eye make-up, and her hat fits *onto* her head. The new model looks flat-featured and as though she has no hair. Her hat is sitting on top of her head like a cheap souvenir. The model in white with the french roll somehow puts me in mind of Ma Ingalls. Just sayin'.Debhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13531716617059219992noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-17491150181653460092012-10-04T18:02:24.472-04:002012-10-04T18:02:24.472-04:00my grandmother wanted me to make up her favorite b...my grandmother wanted me to make up her favorite blouse for her. She had a pattern she had been using for close to thirty years. Silly me, I thought she needed a newer pattern. So I bought a very similar pattern from the same big four company. When I pulled out the patterns to compare I found it was the same exact pattern, line for line. <br /><br />the number was different. The outside illustrations were different, but the pattern it's self was line for line the exact same pattern. Nothing was updated, except the price.<br /><br />So that is my story about learning how pattern companies resell the same pattern over and over. It made sense to me after I thought about it a while.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5820200406982031012012-10-04T07:03:01.746-04:002012-10-04T07:03:01.746-04:00I find the re-issues a lot less expensive way to d...I find the re-issues a lot less expensive way to dip your toe into vintage styles. Also, I'm not skilled enough to grade up patterns yet. I love to see the real ones used- I've inherited many and passed them along to folks I knew had skills, but I'm not there yet and still want to play....prttynpnkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16513331416653286924noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41984905052821080542012-10-04T06:02:54.795-04:002012-10-04T06:02:54.795-04:00Decades of Style are simply fantastic. I've bo...Decades of Style are simply fantastic. I've bought a bunch of their patterns, so far I've made two,<br />http://www.decadesofstyle.com/vintage-patterns-1930s/3003-1930-salon-trousers-<br />http://www.decadesofstyle.com/vintage-patterns-1940s/4003-1948-siren-sundress<br />Both were very easy to follow - the trousers were only my third attempt at trousers, I was pretty daunted by them, but it was so straightforward to make. Really, Decades of Style patterns are so easy to follow.<br />And thank you for introducing me to EvaDress Patterns - although I don't think my bank account's going to be quite so happy! Pamnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-4078637060380156722012-10-04T05:55:27.548-04:002012-10-04T05:55:27.548-04:00This is definitely true, and can be seen just look...This is definitely true, and can be seen just looking at how illustrations on pattern envelopes change over the decades. 1930s patterns in particular are drawn very thin and tall. Beautiful pictures, but not realistic.Pamnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34368346503156524162012-10-03T14:42:07.126-04:002012-10-03T14:42:07.126-04:00Yes, I think this is it. My experience is that yo...Yes, I think this is it. My experience is that you get more shock from sewing up a vintage pattern, as most people don't have legs that are 3/4 of their total height!Stitchy Witchhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13492048376038786053noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-27144875371931102312012-10-03T11:10:40.824-04:002012-10-03T11:10:40.824-04:00I like vintage patterns; ahhh the illustrations ar...I like vintage patterns; ahhh the illustrations are inspirational, so beautiful, but not necessarily accurate. When photos first came on the envelope sewers were happy to see how the outfit actually looked on a body.<br /> <br />What I have always liked most about vintage patterns, especially(!) Vogue, were the instructions. I love the instruction sheets as much as the illustrations. You had to have a basic knowledge of sewing, but they gave instructions that were more detailed in finishing construction; no skipped steps for quicker, easier construction. The vintage instructions were/are a great way to learn and perfect sewing, giving a better looking and longer lasting garment.<br /><br />Since I am old enough to have sewn with the origin vintage patterns when they were new (50s on)...when I sewed with a pattern other than Vogue, I would pull out a similar Vogue pattern as a reference. This was especially helpful in sewing tailored and close fitting items. <br /><br />And, Peter, during the 70s mens suits were promoted because a wife of a national newsman sewed his suits and produced all the proper innards packaged for the home sewer; a Vogue pattern of a mans suit was a treasure for instruction! That and a book (which you have) got me fascinated with tailoring.<br /><br />I find current Vogue patterns are still a bit more detailed but certainly not like the vintage instructions. But then the instructions from the other major pattern makers are even less perfected today from what they were. Maybe I'm just a geek, but vintage instruction sheets are just yummy.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Doreenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09163688276505342063noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-55239163118045256172012-10-03T10:37:53.201-04:002012-10-03T10:37:53.201-04:00I do like reissues! I have two toddlers who make s...I do like reissues! I have two toddlers who make sewing a living hell and if they rip a reissue while Im trying to cut it out, I don't panic. Also, my measurements are 44-33-47 so it makes life a little easier on me if I dont have to spend the extra time grading a pattern. You're totally correct, adjustments are always needed but a full several inches of grading takes time that I often don't have because of the kids. I have made up some really pretty reissues with vintage or high quality fabric and they have turned out beautifully. On the "killing the market" aspect- I would never pay $50 for a pattern anyway. It kills me every time I see someone charge more than $30 for a vintage pattern. By the time I buy fabric, the pattern, the notions, I might as well buy an original garment :( Those reissues have inspired a lot of newbie seamstresses to learn to sew and to move on to more complicated originals so I think all in all, they are a good thing!Brittany_Va-VoomVintagehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04377031677999463069noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-16429285081997938212012-10-03T10:03:52.048-04:002012-10-03T10:03:52.048-04:00Hunh. With one exception--the instructions were m...Hunh. With one exception--the instructions were missing--I've never had a problem with this. I'm not that experienced a seamstress, either. I find all the dots and lines on modern patterns confusing. I already followed the cutting layout, and most sewing manuals will tell you not to cut things that shouldn't be on the bias, on the bias, and the instructions tell me how much seam allowance I need, so why are seam allowance and grain lines printed on?? It's not like I'm going to trace the seam allowance onto the pattern--my sewing machine has guides on the plate to help me measure that. It seems like a lot of extra gobbeldygook that I don't need if I've already read through the directions.Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-9293791405367002602012-10-03T10:00:14.472-04:002012-10-03T10:00:14.472-04:00I don't know enough about slopers, but I'v...I don't know enough about slopers, but I've always wondered how, exactly, this works for vintage looks. I know how much ease one generally adds for fitted, less-fitted, very loose, etc. but since the fit wasn't the same in the past as it is now . . . how does one determine?<br /><br />For instance, a fitted dress in 1935 would fit closer over the hips and less closely around the bodice than a modern fitted dress. It's not just an issue of the "right" amount of ease, it's an issue of the right amount of ease <i>for the time period</i>, which may not be the same.<br /><br />I have big hips and always have to add at least two inches, but I still know that I'll have x amount of ease over the hips. My hips are two inches bigger than the pattern measurements, so I add two inches, but the difference between the dress and my fanny remains the same. If I measured my hips and added the prescribed modern ease, that might not be the case.Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-65147765384537945742012-10-03T09:54:23.262-04:002012-10-03T09:54:23.262-04:00I've got:
Butterick B4513 (1957/2005)
Butter...I've got:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/littleblackcar/7152444779/in/set-72157623748673280/" rel="nofollow">Butterick B4513</a> (1957/2005)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/littleblackcar/7006355240/in/set-72157623748673280" rel="nofollow">Butterick B5209</a> (1947/2008)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/littleblackcar/7152444719/in/set-72157623748673280/" rel="nofollow">Butterick B5281</a> (1946/2008)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/littleblackcar/7152444737/in/set-72157623748673280/" rel="nofollow">Butterick B6582</a> (1960/2001)<br /><br />The jury is still out on whether I'm going to keep and de-modernize <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/littleblackcar/3402619879/in/set-72157623748673280" rel="nofollow">Butterick B4790/6015</a> (1952/2006) or not. I have other wrap-dress patterns, but this one is sort of a benchmark design so I kind of want to keep it.<br /><br />Anyway . . . are those more flattering examples? Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-84244786873470705962012-10-03T09:44:21.763-04:002012-10-03T09:44:21.763-04:00I have a few repro patterns - bought to see how th...I have a few repro patterns - bought to see how the pattern pieces were cut, not to make. I haven't found any interesting vintage patterns - late 60s-70s dime-a-dozen patterns seem to be the normal find for me. But then, I'm not focused on searching for them either.<br /><br />One part of the charm of the vintage patterns is the faces in the artwork - look at the 2 Vogue patterns you've shown. The vintage drawing has character (Ms Blackdress and Ms Greendress are giving each other a sideways glare? glance? that's rather humorous and great fodder for Erin's (of A Dress A Day fame) stories. The repro - Ms Blackdress has no expression.<br /><br />Let's not forget the instructions in the vintage patterns. Sometimes there are some gems hidden in them as Summerset (of Pins and Needles fame) has shown us.JustGailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08948391538309176039noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-72788375940771359482012-10-03T09:43:16.511-04:002012-10-03T09:43:16.511-04:00I've been wondering this! Somebody just gave ...I've been wondering this! Somebody just gave me several reproduction patterns and I've been debating whether to keep or resell them. I know that the Walkaway Dress was altered rather significantly when it was reissued, but I wasn't sure of the ones I was give were, as well. If they were . . . what's the point? If I wanted modern fit, I'd buy modern patterns. <br /><br />I don't understand some of the sizing arguments, either. I understand the one about a larger range of sizes being available, yes, but the fact that I'm a 12 now and I was a 16 in 1945 doesn't mean sizing has changed that much. I'm the same size; the numbers just shifted. Women get way too hung up on the size number--I'm a 34/27/39 regardless of what number they slap on the envelope. Sizing has always been just an average: They can't possibly make a pattern that fits everyone because we're all different. I will always have to let the hips and backside out, for instance, and add length to bodices. Whether I'm basically a 12 or basically a 16 is irrelevant.<br /><br />Personally, I get much better fit from vintage patterns than I do from modern ones, even without extreme undergarments. Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.com