tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post6650290154450718648..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: How should a man's shirt fit? Peter's 20-shirt challenge!Peter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-30376994967703038692013-01-16T22:46:38.069-05:002013-01-16T22:46:38.069-05:00I am slim and work out, and I prefer a close fitti...I am slim and work out, and I prefer a close fitting shirt without a lot of extra fabric. Back darts are a way to give the shirt a flattering shape, and I ask for back darts in all of my bespoke shirts. Some of my best Italian shirts have front darts as well. It makes for a clean, tailored and sophisticated look.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-10051138315147134332011-05-16T12:33:52.629-04:002011-05-16T12:33:52.629-04:00i THINK YOU ARE GREAT love all your enthusiasmi THINK YOU ARE GREAT love all your enthusiasmgeehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01258332886749996888noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-57481559514366371652011-01-28T06:26:42.132-05:002011-01-28T06:26:42.132-05:00Pam Erny adds a "Prince Seam" to some of...Pam Erny adds a "Prince Seam" to some of her shirts as both a design feature and a fitting adjustment....not traditional by any means but it looks good I think.Phyllishttp://coudremode.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-83009018890571179632011-01-27T21:59:17.914-05:002011-01-27T21:59:17.914-05:00Sorry - no snow here in Oregon. Lucky us. We even ...Sorry - no snow here in Oregon. Lucky us. We even saw the sun this afternoon.kathyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13468763091074811797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-18566500114403868482011-01-27T21:43:59.035-05:002011-01-27T21:43:59.035-05:00Thanks very much Peter. I think I need a copy of ...Thanks very much Peter. I think I need a copy of the shirtmaking book!Cleverclogsnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-2680313051266818512011-01-27T06:59:34.206-05:002011-01-27T06:59:34.206-05:00Cleverclogs, if you click on the photo I posted fr...Cleverclogs, if you click on the photo I posted from David Coffin's Shirtmaking book, you'll see the right diagram is labeled, "Swinging out side seam to accomodate full waist." That's how it's done, basically. We'll talk about it more once we get started.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-89193939049116543812011-01-27T05:58:45.115-05:002011-01-27T05:58:45.115-05:00The comments on waist length are really helpful- t...The comments on waist length are really helpful- thanks Debbie, and many thanks Peter for bringing the subject up<br /><br />Re adding room for the tum- I wonder if one can do for a man's shirt what I do sometimes for tops- just swing the centre front slightly off the fold/ straight grain towards the hem to add slightly to the circumference? Obviously it won’t work for stripes or plaids and I don’t know how it would go if you want to add a large amount, but it’s fine for fabrics like knits and adding small amounts of room say less than 2 inches. It seems to me that it would be easier than adding at the sides or slashing and spreading the front pattern pieces. I hope one of the experienced shirt wranglers can give some guidance on this one.<br /><br /> I'll be watching developments (not sewing along, due to work commitments alas) with interest. Good luck to everyone who is purchasing patterns, buttons and fabric. May your choices be inspired and your threads never tangle!Cleverclogsnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-87971582818938425642011-01-26T22:54:22.751-05:002011-01-26T22:54:22.751-05:00My guy is really big, chest measurement of 57 inch...My guy is really big, chest measurement of 57 inches (yes, really almost six feet) and barrel-built, with a long back (six feet tall, 31 inch inseam) I'm going to be kibitzing with interest on this sew-along, but not joining, as I suspect that I'm going to have to do a lot of alterations; and I'm just not at that level of sewing yet.Treadle27noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-7491792280597347772011-01-26T17:17:45.336-05:002011-01-26T17:17:45.336-05:00I don't think one can make a sweeping statemen...I don't think one can make a sweeping statement about whether waist darts belong or not. (I'll have to re-read that part of the book to see what he really says.) It depends on the body shape, the style of the day, and the wearer's preferences — all of which can and do change. Maybe DPC just has a preference and body shape for undarted and/or less fitted shirts. ??Debbie Cookhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03601675304884019607noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-7115935974405043962011-01-26T16:41:31.286-05:002011-01-26T16:41:31.286-05:00No, you will need darts. I was rereading Adele Mar...No, you will need darts. I was rereading Adele Margolis and was reminded that darts are what turns our two-dimensional fabric into three-dimensional shapes. If a man -- or woman for that matter -- has contours, something has to give that fabric dimensionality. Either darts or a seam that creates contours, like a princess seam.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-83302682654024870972011-01-26T16:23:26.793-05:002011-01-26T16:23:26.793-05:00Well this is where I really pay attention. My blo...Well this is where I really pay attention. My bloke has a bigger chest to waist ratio than the guy in the first shot. Like Pterion I have used the sloping shoulder adjustmet to help get a good shape. I was dismayed to read that David Page Coffin says mens' shirts should not have darts. How on earth do men with large chests and tiny waists get shirts that fit if they can't have darts? I think particularly of body builders and athletes: to get a shirt that fits their chest they need to buy a very large size that then balloons around their smaller waist and makes them look fat which kind of defeats the purpose of all that gym work! I'm really excited to learn from everyone elses fitting issues.Carolhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11274649006496918800noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-83886240233137373712011-01-26T15:02:20.058-05:002011-01-26T15:02:20.058-05:00@aliesje: ROFLAO, FBA - Full Belly Adjustment, I L...@aliesje: ROFLAO, FBA - Full Belly Adjustment, I LOVE IT!!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-43755944865790194302011-01-26T14:33:25.176-05:002011-01-26T14:33:25.176-05:00Okay Peter...it appears from looking at these phot...Okay Peter...it appears from looking at these photos that my hubby has the same shape and is about the same size as you. Honestly I don't think he has EVER had a shirt that fit him properly. They are all too big. I am looking forward to sewing him something that fits and then I will try a pair of pants...There are not many men of his age with a 29-30 inch waist and it is always hard to buy RTW for him.Sassy Lassies Vintage Lifehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05537761367611783397noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-54935632206474610752011-01-26T13:38:01.447-05:002011-01-26T13:38:01.447-05:00i'm so excited for this sewalong - my sweetie ...i'm so excited for this sewalong - my sweetie has a hard time finding any commercial shirts that fit (he's a big barrel-chested bear of a man) - they're generally too short and as others have mentioned for their fellas, pull a little over the stomach. i had never before thought about the paucity of clothing available for plus size gents! so i'm excited to learn FBA (full belly adjustment).aliesjenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-68387336140077643662011-01-26T13:04:20.119-05:002011-01-26T13:04:20.119-05:00My hubby has the traps and the lats, too, so I'...My hubby has the traps and the lats, too, so I'm curious about fitting---I've been trying to research slope-shoulder adjustments, but I'm not sure how most of them apply to a yoke as opposed to a true shoulder seam. After ten years of buying smaller shirts, we've finally twigged that my hubby needs a large size to fit shoulders, neck, and arm length, but then the rest of him is swimming in them. (He's built rather like a pit-bull.) Hmm, now to wrestle him into letting me take pictures...Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-61129813945027804132011-01-26T12:58:56.207-05:002011-01-26T12:58:56.207-05:00I am just so, so enjoying reading your blog and wi...I am just so, so enjoying reading your blog and will be closely following this sew-along. Unfortunately for me I don't have time to participate in the sewing, but I really appreciate the level of detail in your posts; I am already getting a lot out of it, even without sewing a shirt myself.Laurahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12513053198910759283noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5704347268280042702011-01-26T12:29:15.399-05:002011-01-26T12:29:15.399-05:00I have noticed this, and truthfully, it's an i...I have noticed this, and truthfully, it's an issue that I know I'll need to deal with. I realized it from the beginning, because the commercial shirts are like this too. My intended shirt recipient has a waist that's a size bigger than his chest. While my brother isn't particularly fat, he is carrying an extra pound or two around his waist that makes fitting a shirt for him a little challenging. His commercial shirts tend to bag a bit at the top and strain a little over his stomach. <br /><br />I think that 1) it shouldn't really be baggy anywhere, and 2) it also shouldn't strain and pull at buttons. <br /><br />So, Peter, how can I accomplish this feat of super-human fitting?Laurahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07717835382469677601noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-7879891262969017802011-01-26T12:28:17.784-05:002011-01-26T12:28:17.784-05:00Lauriana, I'm confused but that's nothing ...Lauriana, I'm confused but that's nothing new.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-78081194316963339182011-01-26T12:26:47.240-05:002011-01-26T12:26:47.240-05:00For the record, that top photo of Taylor What'...For the record, that top photo of Taylor What's-his-name-Ask Debbie, is NOT the way I would want my shirts to fit in the back. WAY too fitted for my taste.<br /><br />The hair I wouldn't mind, however.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-80148580113686792962011-01-26T12:24:16.996-05:002011-01-26T12:24:16.996-05:00Ehm, I ment to say: some sway-back adjusments look...Ehm, I ment to say: some sway-back adjusments look more like waist LENGTH issuesLaurianahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-77218992199764494442011-01-26T12:22:49.544-05:002011-01-26T12:22:49.544-05:00Ehm... some sway-back adjustments look like waist ...Ehm... some sway-back adjustments look like waist LENGTH issues. That's what I ment to say.Laurianahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-44446549325534385222011-01-26T12:20:58.018-05:002011-01-26T12:20:58.018-05:00Peter, if I don't misunderstand your hints abo...Peter, if I don't misunderstand your hints about your professional helper for fitting, I'm both star-struck and jealous. And, of course, wishing you all the best and looking forward to the coverage.<br /><br />Debbie, great you brought up waist length. I've been quite annoyed for a while now with the over-exposure of sway-back adjustment on women's sewing blogs. MANY of which look an awful lot like waist issues...<br /><br />If you ask me, there seems to be a lot of disagreement about how men's shirts should fit. I think some ease is both needed and more flattering but some waist shaping can work well for a slender figure. I know that, in his book, David Page Coffin campaigns against darts in shirts. And on the other hand, some high street stores sell men's shirts with both back and front darts/princess seams. And some men wear them and pick their size the way a lot of women do: 'if the buttons don't come off if I move, this must be my size'....<br /><br />I'm really looking forward to hearing about a professional's opinion ;)Laurianahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12313746507928565292011-01-26T12:05:35.949-05:002011-01-26T12:05:35.949-05:00I always forget what I know too. ;-)
In case it&#...I always forget what I know too. ;-)<br /><br />In case it's not clear to you or others, the reason why you don't remove length at the bottom of a shaped seam is that the shaping would still land in the wrong place since you've done nothing to alter that. The purpose for the tuck above the pattern's waist is to raise that shaping to where your waist actually is. On a very boxy shirt with no sideseam shaping, then it wouldn't make any difference.Debbie Cookhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03601675304884019607noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-19040009347219301632011-01-26T11:38:55.428-05:002011-01-26T11:38:55.428-05:00Debbie, I always forget how much you know, especia...Debbie, I always forget how much you know, especially about celebrities! ;)<br /><br />I'm going to do a self-drape of my back following the David Coffin method and compare that to the Butterick pattern I use so often. I like the idea of an overall shortening though, which I've just been doing by trimming off the bottom rather than raising the waist a bit. <br /><br />Thanks for the tip!Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-76918821573295273332011-01-26T11:26:47.563-05:002011-01-26T11:26:47.563-05:00My better half is definitely not going to look goo...My better half is definitely not going to look good in his shirt without a few fitting tweaks.<br />So looking forward to this sewalong.<br />I'm really glad Debbie Cook is on board - I'm already learning stuff.<br />-Terry<br />P.S. Patty, those are trapezoids. They are pronounced on my man too and I've been perusing the literature on "sloping shoulders adjustment." Hoping to learn more here about that!pterionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12459353247583310216noreply@blogger.com