tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post6262248286200173859..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: "Aye aye, Caftan!" - WITH POLLPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-37819785698669728532010-02-11T12:18:57.948-05:002010-02-11T12:18:57.948-05:00This is fantastic! I am in utter awe of the placke...This is fantastic! I am in utter awe of the placket as well. And...maybe it's better suited to a warmer climate...but then, if you live in the city, you can probably get away with just about anything if you wear it with that certain <i>joie de vivre</i>, right? Or just accessorize with a piña colada. That'll do quite nicely I think. ;)<br /><br />Cheers!<br />DaisyAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-72714470708740572482010-02-08T18:10:13.304-05:002010-02-08T18:10:13.304-05:00Both caftans are really nice and you and Michael s...Both caftans are really nice and you and Michael should wear them.<br /><br />I use my serger a lot to finish seams after they are sewn. Sometimes I finish the seam edges before they are sewn, but one has to be careful that the fabric edges are not drawn up so set up the machine for taut sewing when doing that. <br /><br />When finishing the armhole edges remember that one edge is concave and one convex making the amount of fabric taken up in the seam finish unequal. To compensate for that. I clip along the concave seam (this would be the garment body) and then hold the seam straight as it is running into the serger. This technique is especially helpful if you want to top stitch from the right side to make a mock fell seam.patsijeanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10362426384481772370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-74308820807299958392010-02-08T11:26:20.142-05:002010-02-08T11:26:20.142-05:00I love both versions of this top! I'm sure you...I love both versions of this top! I'm sure you'll appreciate them much more once it's summery instead of snowy. ;)amberhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12029076436322883513noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-61721697391941073932010-02-08T01:09:02.679-05:002010-02-08T01:09:02.679-05:00I like this top and your placket is terrific. I&#...I like this top and your placket is terrific. I'm not sure the plaid look suits you, but I love the original blue one on you, so what do I know? Two winters ago I made my bloke a full length caftan in brown fleece (also from a vintage pattern) that he wears around the house in winter because he can be naked underneath and still stay warm (he doesn't like wearing clothes). As for sergers (overlockers where I'm from), I find that I use mine less and less. If I'm just knocking out utilitarian garments for work I sew the seam as normal and then overlock the edge for speed and convenience. When I make clothes for my bloke, I usually flat fell or do french seams to make them as comfortable as possible (remember he doesn't like wearing clothes). I have made knit tops and t shirts completely on the serger, but I don't like the thickness of the seam, so for knits I have reverted to sewing them with a stretch stitch on the machine and twin needling the hems. If, however, I'm sewing with a boucle or something thick or that will unravel easily, I will actually overlock all pieces before I sew. I don't know how to use any of the features on my overlocker, so perhaps if I took the time to read the manual and learn how to do some of the other things, I would use it more. It doesn't stop me from wanting a coverstitch machine.Carolhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11274649006496918800noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-91549096692277847352010-02-07T11:23:00.894-05:002010-02-07T11:23:00.894-05:00What a FEELING, Peter, let's stick with the Fl...What a FEELING, Peter, let's stick with the Flashdance theme here!<br /><br />Oh, how that movie enraged my 15-year-old, ballet-school-attending self! Imagine a skinny child with hair shellacked back in an immoveable bun, stamping blistered feet and loudly proclaiming that there's NO WAY that could happen! Never ever!Pattern Junkiehttp://patternjunkie.typepad.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-91473339801289888912010-02-07T09:28:06.179-05:002010-02-07T09:28:06.179-05:00Excellent comments from those above about using a ...Excellent comments from those above about using a serger. Sewing the seam first and then serging works fine on patterns with a 5/8" seam allowance. However, many newer patterns use 1/4" or 3/8" allowances. The 1/4" s.a. enables you to serge and overcast at the same time. This is what I do on knits. <br /><br />On woven fabrics, I usually serge first without removing any fabric, just cutting the stray threads and evening out any irregularities. I then sew the seam on the sewing machine. On the armseye and side seams, I press the seam allowance to the shirt side for the armseye and back for the side seams and sew a second time with the needle hitting just inside the edge of the seam. This creates a faux flat felled seam. (I think this is the finish that Clare could not remember the name of.) If you have a felling foot, you can use that and forget serging because the raw edges are encased.<br /><br />I also like serging the hem of a shirt and then pressing the serged area to the wrong side. Your hem will be automatically consistant with this technique. Then I sew on what was previously the raw edge of the hem. If the fabric is heavier, I sometimes stop here. On lighter fabrics, I press it up a second time and stitch again.<br /><br />VoetAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-363790817956025182010-02-07T08:33:03.130-05:002010-02-07T08:33:03.130-05:00How have I missed this blog? The shirt is darlin...How have I missed this blog? The shirt is darling on you. Maybe you can let Michael borrow it now and then. This ugly winter weather will be gone in two months. Think summer, think brown or taupe shorts, beach shoes and evenings on the patio, grilling and sipping something light, sweet and bubbly. I think you did a great job with this. I also have this pattern, I think. Thanks for the tips on the placket. Now make something very cozy. As for serger advice, I don't think I can improve on what's already been said. Best thing to do is make some knit lounge wear and get it out of your system.Rowsellahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02744798941132024212noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-91150178578438543182010-02-07T08:30:29.807-05:002010-02-07T08:30:29.807-05:00The placket came out GREAT! I have a serger and I ...The placket came out GREAT! I have a serger and I mostly use it to finish seams. I sew the main seam with my conventional machine and then finish with the serger. This works great on sewing jeans in eliminating the bulk of all those layers. It works great on rolled hems too; just takes a little while to get use to the nuiances of this type of machine. Nice project!mimi ohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03308969238826902872noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41582407768935847842010-02-07T03:09:15.836-05:002010-02-07T03:09:15.836-05:00Nice caftan Peter, even though you feel 'meh&#...Nice caftan Peter, even though you feel 'meh'. I suspect what this pattern needs is some outrageously loud material.<br />Re using the serger. It takes time to learn how to control the darn things, especially on curved edges. I find on tricky seams I use the sewing machine first,then serge. On straightforward seams where I am absolutely sire of the fit I just go and serge them.<br />CAn I share my foolproof changeing thread on serger method/<br />Have a scrap of material ready to sew on. Cut the right hand spool thread with about six inches to spare. Tie on the new thread looping both threads through once (not granny not, it will come undone) leaving a one inch tail. Serge until it comes through visible on the scrap. Repeat with the next most right hand spool. Serge through. Now with the two left hand ones, cut them both off near the needles (have both needles in uppermost position of course) Pull the old threads through backwards. Thread the new thread through the machine and the needle,pulling about three inches of extra. Repeat with the last thread. Serge until all the new threads are humming along nicely. I hope this helps.Val from Oznoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-1627471206875486492010-02-06T21:13:04.875-05:002010-02-06T21:13:04.875-05:00Came out nicely, especially the placket on the bia...Came out nicely, especially the placket on the bias. Many advocated sewing first then serging to the side of the seam to finish. That's what I do. Even so, it still feels hard to control at times. There are times I rely on the old overcast on the machine rather than rethread the serger.Myrahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16163175961766563965noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-16230767202291368022010-02-06T20:30:40.843-05:002010-02-06T20:30:40.843-05:00Oh, these comments made me laugh and thanks for al...Oh, these comments made me laugh and thanks for all the serger advice. I ironed the caftan today and I must say it's looking better.<br /><br />Flashdance...what a memory! <br /><br />I promise to post a pic of Michael in the caftan as soon as we have some sun, since that seems to be the way the voting is headed. Go figure!Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-3816298379418420942010-02-06T19:32:08.949-05:002010-02-06T19:32:08.949-05:00On you, with pants most certainly off. Ahem.On you, with pants most certainly off. Ahem.Trudy from HotPatterns xxxnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-33191878960465518812010-02-06T17:43:28.151-05:002010-02-06T17:43:28.151-05:00It's near impossible to answer that poll witho...It's near impossible to answer that poll without an "all of the above" option. (Though I don't usually link plaid and Flashdance.) Very well done.:) I love your blog.Mary Effing-Poppinshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01907320727256531960noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-39937763293557227082010-02-06T17:25:23.856-05:002010-02-06T17:25:23.856-05:00Oh my goodness, Peter - how have I not known of yo...Oh my goodness, Peter - how have I not known of your existence? <br /><br />I have a handful of vintage mens patterns I have no use for (the return on my time just isn't high enough to sell them on my etsy) - would you be interested in taking them off my hands for the cost of first class postage? <br /><br />Drop me an email at katherine@zipzapkap.com if you're interested and I'll start gathering them together for you.Katherine @ ZipZapKaphttp://zipzapkap.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12044292588078230792010-02-06T16:49:31.708-05:002010-02-06T16:49:31.708-05:00Have you thought of shortening the sleeves into 3/...Have you thought of shortening the sleeves into 3/4 lenght ? With shorts (not too baggy please!) or fitted straight-legs chinos in a light colour ... would look great, I think, on you OR Michael.Isabellenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-24718636258067753392010-02-06T15:40:32.420-05:002010-02-06T15:40:32.420-05:00Great idea, the caftan.Great idea, the caftan.Trudyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11649677045881448393noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-15695016536685128942010-02-06T12:36:18.397-05:002010-02-06T12:36:18.397-05:00With knits and wovens, I go directly to the serger...With knits and wovens, I go directly to the serger for straight seams, and usually use 3 threads. For curved seams (or if I really want to be careful), I use my regular machine first, then run the serger 1/8" to the left of it, so the seam is trimmed and neat, but I'm not messing up the nice and clean seam I made first.<br />I like the caftan, regardless of the beach or male model. Wear it with pride!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08126043161321731207noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-24120721799470429512010-02-06T12:13:35.960-05:002010-02-06T12:13:35.960-05:00Gorgeous job on the caftan, especially with that p...Gorgeous job on the caftan, especially with that plaid! <br /><br />I know I should have voted to see it on Michael, but then you had to go and mention Flashdance. Is Cathy willing to have about 1,000 gallons of water dumped on her? And do you have a steel mill handy?Pattern Junkiehttp://patternjunkie.typepad.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-32211696987996568212010-02-06T09:54:58.072-05:002010-02-06T09:54:58.072-05:00great work on the caftan, especially that placket!...great work on the caftan, especially that placket! As far as sleeves go, I wouldn't always use the overlocker on them - if I was, I'd overlock edges together first, then stitch with sewing machine. But on that kind of garment / fabric maybe an encased seam (can't remember the name without looking - not a french seam, the other one!) would be stronger.Clarehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11068859188360245469noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-62759696849118891902010-02-06T09:46:49.351-05:002010-02-06T09:46:49.351-05:00I think it looks great on you. Really nice job on...I think it looks great on you. Really nice job on the plaid fabric. Caftans are great for hot weather, as the guy at the beach shows above (he has nothing on your legs)...Daisyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03478699381178280291noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-82076904974566964492010-02-06T09:25:14.617-05:002010-02-06T09:25:14.617-05:00While you may be meh about it now, this will look ...While you may be meh about it now, this will look great in the summer with short shorts and sandals. You did a great job on the placket. <br /><br />That caftan on the beach pic made me laught out loud. So ridiculously over-the-top. I mean, what beach is that?!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12414542728504102372010-02-06T09:24:22.175-05:002010-02-06T09:24:22.175-05:00I use my serger a lot for a finished edge on seams...I use my serger a lot for a finished edge on seams. As far as sleeves go, it depends, but I find it's best to use the serger to overcast all the edges of the fabric around the armscye and the sleeve edge and then use a sewing machine to join them. That way you get a nicely finished, non raveling edge, but no puckering or changes int he attached sleeve.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-32628410428494967292010-02-06T09:15:22.872-05:002010-02-06T09:15:22.872-05:00serging is like cooking. when you first get a sto...serging is like cooking. when you first get a stove and a french cookbook, you think every night is soufflé au fromage and boeuf bourguignon. Eventually you figure out when it's really just time for some macaroni and cheese. Experience is really all that will tell you. Which basically means you have a great excuse to serge away to your heart's content. You know, for research purposes.<br /><br />Why wasn't "Take your pants off" one of the poll choices?Beangirlhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10402852482784879141noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-63317656378668329832010-02-06T09:12:15.762-05:002010-02-06T09:12:15.762-05:00That image has GOT to be from International Male. ...That image has GOT to be from International Male. I remember when my roommate used to subscribe. Let's just say we both enjoyed reading it.cidellhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13762649326538041094noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41680872573293632072010-02-06T09:07:07.534-05:002010-02-06T09:07:07.534-05:00After getting advice to do what Sue does (sew on a...After getting advice to do what Sue does (sew on a sewing machine, finish on the serger) I ended up putting away my serger because my machine does a really nice overcast stitch, and using it is much faster than pulling out and threading the serger! <br /><br />Interestingly, I know a lot of people who will use the serger to overcast all the edges of their cut out fabric, then use a sewing machine to join them (this seems to be how everyone sews in Germany, at least). <br /><br />Agreed though, I don't know how you can get into a caftan mode in this gray brrrrr! In a couple months you might like them a lot better.sarahhttp://www.colorkitten.comnoreply@blogger.com