tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post6247190617271649654..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: Exhibition Sewing + Suit Project Fabric Purchased!Peter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-54505085887977814702010-08-12T02:17:38.726-04:002010-08-12T02:17:38.726-04:00What's a clapper? Unfortunately I don't ha...What's a clapper? Unfortunately I don't have the attention span required to cut the pattern pieces let alone make the suit but I do have enough to follow this story to the final fitting. Sounds like fun.Into Vintagehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14207115790435481356noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-73496014585485573282010-08-11T20:28:51.542-04:002010-08-11T20:28:51.542-04:00Peter,
And rob you of your journey? Besides, you h...Peter,<br />And rob you of your journey? Besides, you have plenty of really good help right here! I expect to learn more from all the feedback, too! You have a quite wonderful following!?Doreennoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-87908022631073925822010-08-11T18:14:38.439-04:002010-08-11T18:14:38.439-04:00I can't give any advice what-so-ever, but I do...I can't give any advice what-so-ever, but I do want to wish you good luck on this project!Heatherhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10477887672613694373noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-20289845454526393722010-08-11T17:53:22.740-04:002010-08-11T17:53:22.740-04:00Glad to hear about the sew in too. My first job wh...Glad to hear about the sew in too. My first job while in school was as a tailoresses hand and I used to help deconstruct and alter men's & women's suits, even some classics like the odd Chanel or Saville Row. IMHO sew in might take longer but it is built to last. Gorgeous material. xMother of Reinventionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14409826036412353940noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-212130866776064312010-08-11T17:18:10.374-04:002010-08-11T17:18:10.374-04:00Glad to hear you decided on the sew-in interfacing...Glad to hear you decided on the sew-in interfacing. (You may still need a small amount of fusible for certain areas).<br /><br />After you pretreat the wool, you might want to cut a piece and go to places like Greenberg and Hammer and Steinlauf and Stoller to look for interfacing. You could make an initial selection by holding the interfacing up to the fabric and then get some swatches to take home, or buy small amounts for tests.<br /><br />Obviously, you need thread, the usual advice being to get one shade darker than the dominant color. Some people use polyester because it's stronger, or cotton-wrapped polyester. I prefer cotton.<br /><br />If the Bemberg is a contrasting color, you'll need matching thread for the darts, and to close the pleat in the back. Polyester may be better for that.<br /><br />If you want to do fancy top stitching (I wouldn't), you may want to get special top stitching thread for that.<br /><br />You need zippers. Sil Thread has a huge collection in many standard sizes. They're easy to shorten, but Sil Thread and Steinlauf shorten zippers, although with one of those places you have to give them a zipper that's a couple of inches beyond the final intended length.<br /><br />You need pocketing or Silesia for the front and back pockets, and for the crotch protector. I've bought those supplies at New York Elegant Fabrics and Beckenstein. You have to pretreat the material.<br /><br />You may need special waistband hardware -- check the pattern. It's four metal pieces that made up the hook. Otherwise, you can use two trouser hooks.<br /><br />You might want to go to Sil Thread or Mood for muslin. Sil Thread seems to have a really wide range of weights. There's also something called "Swedish Tracing Paper," which is a medium that's sort of like thick, translucent interfacing. You trace the pattern pieces onto it, and sew them together. I've read you can even wash it. It's much sturdier than a typical tissue commercial pattern. <br /><br />You also may want to buy some white and yellow tailor's chalk for the fabric and muslin, respectively, and a red-and-blue pencil for the muslin. Instead of chalk, you could use a dressmaker's pencil. No matter what, you can't use wax paper and a tracing wheel on the suiting fabric.<br /><br />If you find the Bemberg slippery to handle, you might try lightly pressing a piece of freezer paper to it, after lining up the selvage with the edge of the paper. You iron it to the wrong side, of course.<br /><br />It's not even my suit and I'm exhausted. :-)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-6177454666754884942010-08-11T16:25:41.937-04:002010-08-11T16:25:41.937-04:00Doreen, any chance you could sew this suit for me?...Doreen, any chance you could sew this suit for me? LOLPeter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41317570573595675282010-08-11T15:33:02.456-04:002010-08-11T15:33:02.456-04:00Peter,
I am so proud of you for taking up the cha...Peter, <br />I am so proud of you for taking up the challenge!! Looking forward to the finished suit but more importantly your journey to get to the final fitting. Oh, I am so excited for you!Doreennoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-13119684909083360412010-08-11T15:31:30.679-04:002010-08-11T15:31:30.679-04:00I've done several suits, and I would still go ...I've done several suits, and I would still go with fusible, as long as its woven fusible. I know there are several layers of interfacing and you shape as you go, but some of them can be fusible and others woven. When you get into it, you'll see which is which.<br /><br />DEFINITELY do a muslin of the front and back so you can adjust the shoulder. It's a must.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-38783826170485895022010-08-11T14:39:51.825-04:002010-08-11T14:39:51.825-04:00OK, folks, I must pop in to say that I think I am ...OK, folks, I must pop in to say that I think I am going to do it with sew-in interfacing, if only because this will require multiple layers of different kinds of padding.<br /><br />Tune in tomorrow: I have deconstructed a mens suit jacket from Barney's (don't tell them!). Surprises await!Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12429284838135987922010-08-11T12:32:49.607-04:002010-08-11T12:32:49.607-04:00You can use fusible for high quality fabrics you j...You can use fusible for high quality fabrics you just need the right kind. Fusi-knit is a good optionNikihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17412971709899674224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-16712405121663996072010-08-11T12:31:31.326-04:002010-08-11T12:31:31.326-04:00Sorry Peter, here's the URL for Atlanta Thread...Sorry Peter, here's the URL for Atlanta Thread Supply--not affiliated by the way, just a happy customer.<br /><br />http://store.atlantathread.com/Valeriehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01895625114035965626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-36947890440935284972010-08-11T12:19:19.556-04:002010-08-11T12:19:19.556-04:00Oh my! I couldn't be more opinionated about th...Oh my! I couldn't be more opinionated about this! Okay, I will calm down and try to explain why I am so adamant. <br /><br />The interfacing is not just one piece of hair canvas. And there is a reason for that much structure, otherwise why have tailors used this method for centuries? It smooths and holds the outside fabric to a shape that will not cave in to the hollow at the bottom of the shoulder ball joint or the collar bone, it holds the shape of a smooth/chiseled back and slight roundness of the shoulders, keeps the shoulder pad and head from showing through; it makes the ideal male shape. I know I love a man in a suit because it maintains the shape of broad shoulders and slimmer waist and hips. This is in the structure of a well tailored suit. <br /><br />If this were a less formal suit then perhaps you could get by with iron-in interfacing . <br /><br />Iron-in interfacing will not give the needed structure to the collar and will be more blouse-like. The collar's rise must stand firm.<br /><br />Go to a good men's store and feel the structure; look closely at the details. Perhaps buy a ragged but quality tailored suit or jacket at a thrift store and take it apart .<br /><br />Bratling's comment regarding the suit lasting is so pertinent! To put a lot of time and effort into a garment and not have it last....<br /><br />If you do use iron-in interfacing, what have you learned? <br /><br />Progress is wonderful (using hair canvas vs iron-in) but learning the proper way first will give you a better idea of what capabilities are available. And, give you a broader knowledge base to decide sew-in vs iron-in. A knowledge base needs to be handed down and not watered down. <br /><br />Pad stitching is not difficult and actually goes fairly quickly. Stitches are large and uncomplicated compared to what most people think of the dreaded hand sewing. <br /><br />Sew-in is NOT a big deal! <br /><br />As a side note, manufacturers use a lot more iron-on interfacing than the home sewer. It is used in place of staystitching; holds better than staystitching (many people handle the various pieces in the bundling of a garment, so can you imagine how the fabric would stretch and become off grain!) and therefore more cost effective (less manpower hours, less consumer complaints). They have access to a wider range of iron-on than the home sewer, too. I do like using a light weight iron-on interfacing rather than staystitching because it holds a wider area than just a line of stitches. (Sometimes interfacing the complete pattern piece)<br /><br />I don't know if I have explained myself well enough but I will climb down off my soapbox. I do hope I have not offended anyone.Doreennoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12590608876925129292010-08-11T12:18:21.030-04:002010-08-11T12:18:21.030-04:00You can buy tailoring supplies (and all sorts othe...You can buy tailoring supplies (and all sorts other sewing goodies) at Atlantic Thread Supply. They are very reasonably priced and provide good customer service. <br /><br />I love the fabric.Valeriehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01895625114035965626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-18268296246655528572010-08-11T11:50:27.916-04:002010-08-11T11:50:27.916-04:00Amber:
I've settled in with my popcorn and ki...Amber:<br /><br />I've settled in with my popcorn and king-sized Coke.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-65700304570273939342010-08-11T11:48:27.484-04:002010-08-11T11:48:27.484-04:00I can be very cheap; if someone has thrown a large...I can be very cheap; if someone has thrown a large piece of pattern paper on the floor of a workroom I'll pick it up. But I would never put a piece of good wool in the dryer to preshrink it just to save money. There's another method where you wrap the wool in a moist towel and put it in a plastic bag for a day or two. You can look it up.<br /><br />Incidentally, I doubt it would be more than $5 to $10 to preshrink five yards of wool. You might want to check.<br /><br />Or why don't you ask Kashi about methods? I've never met him, but from all the accounts he sounds like a knowledgeable guy. <br /><br />The one time I ever used a large amount of weft fusible on a jacket was a "production" sewing class, in other words, pretty nice RTW, but not made to last. It also was a women's jacket that was based on a Banana Republic pattern, so it didn't require as much structure. I would imagine a man's jacket in a shaped vintage style has to be built up more.<br /><br />Every tailoring teacher I've had detests the use of fusible except for reinforcement or the undercollar.<br /><br />I think the "Tailoring" book describes the pros and cons of fusible.<br /><br />But as someone else said, whatever you do, you have to be prepared to make samples. You don't know how the material and interfacing are going to work together.<br /><br />I once had a sewing class with Kenneth King (who hates hates hates fusible). He would always bring in piles of samples of whatever technique he was demonstrating. <br /><br />In that sense, sewing is not rocket science, it's a matter of putting in the time to see what works, which, of course, is easier to do when it's one's livelihood.<br /><br />King, btw, is someone who is always eager to experiment and to streamline established techniques when possible. He's not an interfacing snob. He recommends sew-in fusible because he genuinely thinks it's better. <br /><br />Good Luck.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-12100364918393672462010-08-11T11:27:01.935-04:002010-08-11T11:27:01.935-04:00I don't have an opinion on the interfacing, bu...I don't have an opinion on the interfacing, but I am interested in the process and the final results. I agree with Sue--you are pushing out and stretching yourself. You will emerge with a fantastic garment, and a lot of knowledge. I think the advice to make a muslin is on target too.sulymohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07887228971839188556noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-23992744141360930222010-08-11T11:18:17.600-04:002010-08-11T11:18:17.600-04:00I don't have anything to add in the way of adv...I don't have anything to add in the way of advice for supplies or such, but I'm very excited about all of this suit business. I'm all settled in my seat, my cell phone has been turned off and I'm ready for the show to be begin. :)amberhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12029076436322883513noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41773670917552557012010-08-11T11:13:27.136-04:002010-08-11T11:13:27.136-04:00Pamela in NH:
I'm sure I don't have as mu...Pamela in NH:<br /><br />I'm sure I don't have as much experience as you, but I've more recently taken some tailoring classes at FIT and I recommended the Cabrera book yesterday. It wasn't required for class, but I bought it and it is indeed a good book.<br /><br />The Kenneth King book on CD (mentioned by someone else) is very good, too. I didn't mention it yesterday because I wanted to avoid information overload.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-19366057376742224262010-08-11T11:01:49.207-04:002010-08-11T11:01:49.207-04:00Don't use fusible on good fabric. If you real...Don't use fusible on good fabric. If you really must, get it done at Quick Fuse on 36th street. It's hard to fuse several yards of 60-inch-wide fabric with home equipment. Yes, I know someone who's done it himself, but he had a lot of professional sewing experience.<br /><br />No offense to the "Real People" authors, but I have one of their books. Many of the things they show are tailored like sacks and look at the taste level presented. Should that really be your guide? The "Perfect Fit" and "Tailoring" books are better.<br /><br />Once again, I think you should make a muslin. Not only is this your first suit, it's a vintage pattern, so it may be cut very differently from a contemporary jacket and trousers.<br /><br />I have no problem with your "credo," but I thought you were making this jacket in something like six weeks for someone who has to wear it for a family portrait. I also understand why professionals don't respect home sewers. <br /><br />Whatever. Have fun.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-50298663252596354652010-08-11T10:57:55.620-04:002010-08-11T10:57:55.620-04:00I studied tailoring at FIT with Roberto Cabrera; h...I studied tailoring at FIT with Roberto Cabrera; his book "Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection)" is the gold standard for info. He had not yet written that book in the 70s and, at that time, recommended the Time-Life book "Basic Tailoring The Art of Sewing", to which he contributed. The T-L book is loaded with clear diagrams and drawings. It is easy (and cheap) to find this book in a used bookstore or on Amazon. <br /><br />We learned without fusibles or pins! He did recommend using a fusible around the pockets however. The man could set in a jacket sleeve without pins or basting! He told us, at that time (1978) there were only 2 US suitmakers who did not use fusibles: Southwick and Polo. I believe even Polo uses fusibles now. Of course fusibles have improved a lot since then. <br /><br />The key to fusibles is testing and multiple layers of fusibles. I also think that shaping and taping the collar and front edges is important. Cabrera used as an example a YSL jacket in which the plaid of the fabric was made to curve to match the shape of the collar. <br /><br />Many years later I took apart an Armani jacket belonging to my husband (it was seriously out of date!) for guidance in applying interfacing (all various fusibles and applied in layers). I still have all my notes from Prof Cabrera's class and find them to be still valuable. I look forward to following your always entertaining efforts. A suit is a big step!Pamela in NHnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-67004151012204612102010-08-11T10:31:08.365-04:002010-08-11T10:31:08.365-04:00Yay, Peter! YAY! I'm almost as excited as I ge...Yay, Peter! YAY! I'm almost as excited as I get before a Broadway show. LOVE the fabric! You're going to be great at this!<br /><br />I'm a huge fan of the "Jackets for Real People" interfacing. It's the best because it doesn't bubble and it doesn't show on the right side of the fabric after you iron it in. I took a pattern fitting class from Marta Alto (she's the dark haired, bespectacled one in the book), and it changed my sewing life. I'm also just down the street from Fabric Depot (home of PalmerPletsch HQ), and can get you their interfacing if you decide you want to use it and don't want to run all over creation trying to find it. I can't say enough about the quality of that stuff. Let me know if you want it!Darcihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02936847220360997738noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-62731656612647270362010-08-11T10:20:43.999-04:002010-08-11T10:20:43.999-04:00sas = seam allowances
As Nancy K mentioned, Kenne...sas = seam allowances<br /><br />As Nancy K mentioned, Kenneth King does the sew-in interfacing differently. He's refined his methods, making them quick but with quality results.<br /><br />It's a fabulous resource.Torynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-84443858416915153942010-08-11T09:56:22.001-04:002010-08-11T09:56:22.001-04:00Sas? What is "sas"?Sas? What is "sas"?Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-11891282564126529982010-08-11T09:49:15.221-04:002010-08-11T09:49:15.221-04:00I have made completely hand tailored coats and jac...I have made completely hand tailored coats and jackets. If you are willing to commit to the time, go for it, but use Kenneth kings method for installing the hair canvas. The traditional method has you catch stitch the edges to the sas as you cannot leave it in the sas. This is very time consuming. KK has you sew it the interfacing to a muslin (well washed) cut in the same sewn around the edges at 3/4 " and then cut out the muslin and cut off the edge of the hair canvas so the muslin fabric is what gets sewn into the sas. However, good fusible can be used with good results, but it is a bit different. The earlier tailoring book from Palmer pletsch, shows 3 methods to tailoring a jacket, including how to hand tailor.Nancy Khttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-23742953344694889262010-08-11T09:29:40.693-04:002010-08-11T09:29:40.693-04:00(I hate those kinds of questions....)(I hate those kinds of questions....)Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.com