tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post411578048473828660..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: Fit Issues and Self-Esteem Peter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger68125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-13979578348452510642017-12-27T09:36:40.003-05:002017-12-27T09:36:40.003-05:00For some reason, jackets, particularly dress jacke...For some reason, jackets, particularly dress jackets, hang down below my fingers, leaving me with the feeling my arms are too short. Consequently, I never wear dress jackets, and I am actually hardly ever around people who do, though I have a long held wish to pattern my wardrobe on Cary Grant's. I have to admit I don't even know, really, where sleeves on jackets are supposed to hang. I always feel like a little bit of my shirt cuff should show, rather than a little tip of my fingernail. I'm gearing up for one of my perennial efforts to sew more, but I haven't really developed my skills. I'm still at the stuff sack/tote bag level for the most part, but it would be nice to get to the point where I could make some nicer clothes that fit the way I want them to.Paul Cooleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15887877927069460273noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81962726191158891312014-01-31T01:56:14.386-05:002014-01-31T01:56:14.386-05:00I think the black leather jacket looks fine. I had...I think the black leather jacket looks fine. I had to laugh when you mentioned that you were told that you were a winter. I took a color class at the Academy of Art SF and it was a very interesting class and I did agree with the teacher on most things but I think black looks great on just about anyone. For me sleeve length is a huge problem. I tend to be one of those that needs a tall size and it's just not possible a lot of the time to find a shirt that has the right length in a sleeve. I also enjoy my shirts and coats with a bit of room to them. Tight clothes tend to make me feel like I can't breath.Charltonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03895484246839403059noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5563757326354594122013-12-21T20:58:31.836-05:002013-12-21T20:58:31.836-05:00dude just make your own patterns. it's NOT tha...dude just make your own patterns. it's NOT that hard. I was a new sewer last year, didn't know anything and managed to make my own patterns. All you need to do is observe.<br /><br />Measure your well-fitting clothes. You know what I use to make a jacket? A coat? A shirt?<br /><br />I use a T-shirt pattern. Except, of course, I have to change the pattern. For shirts, I need to divide the back for the yoke, I need to create a collar and a stand and I need to create a hem that makes a shirt the way it looks.<br /><br />For jackets and coats, I enlarge the pattern, I enlarge the armhole and I design it the way I want to.<br /><br />YOU DO NOT NEED ANY OTHER PATTERN EXCEPT YOUR T-SHIRT PATTERN. Trust me.<br /><br />All you need is imagination and a little patience.<br /><br />You don't need to keep buying patterns all the time. You can learn to make your own.Jhonattanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15897732613804693050noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-73540110252471366432013-03-04T10:47:59.181-05:002013-03-04T10:47:59.181-05:00My dear Peter. Yes. Yes. Yes! I have fit issues! I...My dear Peter. Yes. Yes. Yes! I have fit issues! I am according to every woman;s sizing chart a perfect size 10, *ok the chart was made in 1940* in Pattern envelope sizing I am an size 12? since I have 36 inch hips and apparently I should have 33.5 inch hips to match my waist measurement..... really? Who has 34 inch hips? Does anyone have this tiny of a hip/butt measurement?? And, of course, I have small boobs. Yes, I know there are many woman who say: try having big boobs, but I don't care. I can not find a bra that really fits. Besides that I am athletically built, with wide shoulders, a trim waist and strong thighs. Finding a collared shirt here in Europe is impossible! I have literally ripped ouot the shoulder seams of three shirts. If I go up a size to a 36 to accomodate my shoulders I am swimming in the shirt it is so big. I suppose if I have shoulders I should also have big boobs too according to standard European sizing.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-42789410431580483612013-02-25T12:35:15.067-05:002013-02-25T12:35:15.067-05:00If you buy Burda patterns in Europe, they don'...If you buy Burda patterns in Europe, they don't have seam allowances, but they are easy to add. Just rubberband two pencils together and trace around the pattern. That will give you a use able seam allowance, just remember what it is and put a piece of masking tape on your sewing machine to mark it. That being said, the Burda style magazines sold in the US do have seam allowances 5/8" included. Burda patterns are the best fitting I've used and I've been sewing for 55 years due to no money, too many kids (4) :-) and not finding the fit or style I like in stores.Joanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08659736904999383614noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-30306439942189304212013-02-23T22:23:05.111-05:002013-02-23T22:23:05.111-05:00this. is. awesome. I feel better now.this. is. awesome. I feel better now.mwikalinoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-21130687537046980932013-02-23T20:46:24.974-05:002013-02-23T20:46:24.974-05:00I've always been exceptionally tall, even as a...I've always been exceptionally tall, even as a child. When my growth spurt hit at age 10/11 (5th grade) I went from 5'2" to 5'10" in less than the school year. I was thin to begin with and didn't gain any weight. Of course back then (when patterns came in single sizes and printing on them was a new concept), nothing fit me except my mother's shoes and men's Levis (and we weren't allowed to wear pants to school).<br /><br />So, YES! - having learned to sew at an early age was extremely helpful and I would have taken an even bigger hit to my self esteem than I would have without the ability to wear clothes that fit. Even today (with my much more padded body) I always feel much more confident when wearing clothes that I made or was able to purchase in a tall store (sniff - they're all closed!) and then altered slightly to fit. I actually feel depressed and more introverted than usual when I'm in 'regular' clothes that are too short, too tight in the shoulders (did I mention I was also a swimmer?) or seat, or too baggy around the body when I find them to fit in the shoulders or seat.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00038069888630442006noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-68175530676991222262013-02-22T15:52:02.541-05:002013-02-22T15:52:02.541-05:00Leather jacket bought on vacation? You had not see...Leather jacket bought on vacation? You had not seen You've Got Mail before you bought it, had you? :D<br /><br />Being able to make/alter my own patterns and make my own clothes and clothes for my sister (some) sure helps my self esteem (and hers) a lot. Because they fit. A) I can look good the way I am (the obvious answer to your question), B) it sure helps to boost my self esteem knowing that <i>I</i> made that wonderful piece of clothing! :DHana - Marmotahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03532515160608083460noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-91809436570358664712013-02-21T16:10:11.546-05:002013-02-21T16:10:11.546-05:00Wow. I thought from your photos that you were at l...Wow. I thought from your photos that you were at least 6'. You give off "tall" vibes : ).<br /><br />As for fit issues and self-esteem, join the club. I think it's a problem for nearly everyone. Thing is, most people don't realize that their clothes don't fit, or they don't care. Just look around (or rather, leave NYC and look around). <br /><br />Those of us who realize we look awful in nearly all affordable off-the-rack either learn to sew or find a good seamstress.<br /><br />Fact is, unless you happen to match the manufacturer's fit model's measurements exactly (and what are the odds of that?), the chance of anything store-bought ever fitting perfectly is almost nil. That's true whether you're tall, short, slim, fat, or anything in between. <br /><br />I have to alter (or rather, "have altered") nearly everything, and there is nothing particularly bizarre about me, beyond my long torso. At 5'5-1/2", measuring 35, 26, 35, you'd think I'd have no problem at all, right? Wrong. <br /><br />Nothing fits. Absolutely nothing. If something does fit, it's nearly miraculous. I can spend hours trying on clothes, and unless they're made of stretch material, nothing truly fits. It's an enormous time and energy sink, and yes, emotionally trying. <br /><br />Tailored jackets that fit in the bust are huge in the rest of the torso. Petites are just short, not truly petite (and with my torso, jackets barely clear my ribs). <br /><br />Pants, skirts, and dresses are too big in the waist, and often in the hips. If the waist fits, they usually too tight through the bottom and thighs (no, I'm really not skinny, and I'm muscular).<br /><br />As for crying, I hear you. We have all done it, if we are aware enough to realize that nothing is working, and care enough to get frustrated. Just try being a woman (of any shape and size) shopping for jeans, a swimsuit, or gads, a bra.<br /><br />Or try being a ballet student who needs a size XL leotard to prevent it from creeping up her butt because her "girth" is literally off the chart -- several inches more than someone who outweighs her by 50 pounds!? Talk about depressing. A ballerina with a Gumby torso, which makes her otherwise normal-length legs look like spare parts form a dachshund. Not good. <br /><br />Rather than crumple in a miserable heap, I try (and it does take effort) to remind myself that it is the manufacturer's "fault," not mine. There's nothing "wrong" with me. I'm just an individual, same as everyone else. I buy what I can find that "almost" fits and take it to a seamstress for alterations to fit my unique shape.<br /><br />Count yourself fortunate that you even realize what does and doesn't fit and flatter*, and are willing to seek it out. Beyond that, kudos for taking matters into your own hands and learning to sew. I envy your skill. <br /><br />*yeah, I wrote a post about THAT topic, too. It's here (delete as you see fit, I don't want to overstep): <br />http://www.betterdressesvintage.com/blogs/from-my-closet/7107440-skirting-the-issue<br /><br />p.s. I have several extra small-framed middle-aged friends who shop at "GAP Kids" and similar, because the styles are the same, but the sizes are smaller. No shame in that. BetterDressesVintagehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09762212227282569473noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-63607414454695903752013-02-20T20:37:35.606-05:002013-02-20T20:37:35.606-05:00Ugh, my husband is 5'7" and shopping is a...Ugh, my husband is 5'7" and shopping is a nightmare. We just got an H&M here, so maybe he can poke around there to see if he turns up anything good.Claire Jainhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15040271123285093923noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5517674395744628042013-02-20T17:30:11.013-05:002013-02-20T17:30:11.013-05:00I started sewing primarily because I couldn't ...I started sewing primarily because I couldn't find items that matched the style clothes I wanted to wear. At this point I guess I was an 'average' sized person and didn't have too many fit issues with RTW with the exception of my larger shoulders and arms (I was a rower...), so didn't own a jacket or button-down shirts for several years. However, over time my figure has gotten a lot curvier and I can't seem to fit anything off the rack now so I'm grateful to be able to make my own clothes.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16978391863183855955noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-54525783001211313832013-02-20T16:28:36.890-05:002013-02-20T16:28:36.890-05:00Self-esteem problems? Don't get me started. ...Self-esteem problems? Don't get me started. On the rare occasions when I'm wearing something that fits, is comfortable, is appropriate, expresses my personality I get angry. I look GOOD. I feel confident. Yeah, I should have moved beyond this decades ago, but guess what, it matters. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-83665147238092728632013-02-20T16:18:21.008-05:002013-02-20T16:18:21.008-05:00I have the exact opposite problem. Good luck with...I have the exact opposite problem. Good luck with finding a fitting buddy. Wish I could find one. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-47656343717389707902013-02-20T16:05:49.137-05:002013-02-20T16:05:49.137-05:00I should add: I'm actually OK with the idea th...I should add: I'm actually OK with the idea that RTW sizing is basically an average. They can't miraculously fit everyone, and what would fit me would definitely not fit most of my friends. I'm just glad that now I can do something about it.Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-30260907831981695422013-02-20T16:04:26.520-05:002013-02-20T16:04:26.520-05:00My brother has the opposite problem: He's 6...My brother has the opposite problem: He's 6'3" and long-legged. A lot of stores don't carry 36-inch inseams, either! He also has massive thighs (genetics; we both should have trained for the Tour de France) and ample backside that would make finding pants difficult for any man, even if he weren't tall. He's like a human Clydesdale.Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41839477292516875102013-02-20T13:25:11.595-05:002013-02-20T13:25:11.595-05:00I don't even want to admit how much of my life...I don't even want to admit how much of my life I've spent crying over pants. I'm 5'7" (mid-range height) and a mid-range size, but I have a long torso and very, very, large thighs. As in, each thigh is only a few inches smaller in diameter than my waist. I also have broad hips and a Kardashian backside. <br /><br />Pants don't fit.<br /><br />If I hold them up to see that the waist should fit, I can only pull them up to my knees. If I can pull them up all the way, the waist is far too large to be wearable even with the mother of all belts. And since everything now is cut closely over the thighs and is low-rise . . . forget it. I haven't really loved jeans since 1990's wide-legs.<br /><br />I've been wearing the same Lee Riders for ten years because they no longer make that cut and I can't get any more. The only new jeans that even sort-of fit are the old-school Wranglers made for women who ride horses, because they have straight legs, are not slim-cut, and have high waists. <br /><br />So, basically, I wear skirts and dresses. I've changed the oil in my car while wearing a skirt.<br /><br />I have fitting issues with shirts, too, but they're less severe and more easily avoided since knit shirts are more acceptable than living in sweatpants.<br /><br />Honestly, learning to alter patterns and sew for myself was one of the best things I ever did for my body image and self-esteem. I've basically stopped fighting with my clothes. <br /><br />Little Black Carhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14313164876855565140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-51833013001851471822013-02-20T13:21:12.981-05:002013-02-20T13:21:12.981-05:00No, I usually don't have fitting problems with...No, I usually don't have fitting problems with RTW. They made changes in the past years in France in the sizing of the clothes and now I can find sweater that go all the way of my long arms, and shirts have more place for the boobs !<br /><br />BUT, tend to prefer the clothes I make because I make my own patterns. It took me quite some time to have the perfect block pattern. But now that it's done, I usually go into very expensive shops, take a picture or draw a little sketch and back home I make a "sur mesure" copy or inspired clothe ! And as making a dress takes much time than buying one, I limit (a bit:-)) my spending !<br />cheers<br /> Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07259290481920605413noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-63525234979952508082013-02-20T12:10:44.648-05:002013-02-20T12:10:44.648-05:00I usually don't even make it to the fitting ro...I usually don't even make it to the fitting room before giving up and walking back to the car to cry. I'm 5'10 and the only tall clothing stocked is *maybe* a few dress pants and a couple pair of jeans. And even then not in all sizes. I don't even think about looking for long sleeve tops or jackets. Catalogs aren't much better - I can't say how many will have pants in tall, but not the matching jacket. WTF?!?!?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-14503907273628640462013-02-20T11:29:36.101-05:002013-02-20T11:29:36.101-05:00Life plays little jokes on us like that! ;)Life plays little jokes on us like that! ;)Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-35997721735462209082013-02-20T10:53:57.436-05:002013-02-20T10:53:57.436-05:00Does *anyone* fit in RTW? I tend to think no, but...Does *anyone* fit in RTW? I tend to think no, but not everyone's aware of it. <br /><br />I was aware of my fit issues by the time I was 7--the year my mom stopped buying one-piece swimsuits for me because my torso was too long and the rest of me too skinny to a rtw size.<br /><br />I still have the same problem, but now with long arms, broad, square shoulders, a flat chest, and a very long rise.<br /><br />Add on top of that the fact that I just...loathe....looking feminine despite being an XX person, and, well, recipe for fashion disaster. Kind of ironic that I have to take up a "feminine" pastime like sewing because I'm too masculine, huh? :)Scooternoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-71004053630868639392013-02-20T10:43:04.358-05:002013-02-20T10:43:04.358-05:00Yup. Big giant boobs wreak havoc on my self-esteem...Yup. Big giant boobs wreak havoc on my self-esteem. But over the past few years I got better at camouflaging and these days, I think most people don't notice. I'm not nearly so self-conscious now that I have a better idea of what I should and shouldn't wear for my body type. It's definitely a process.chchoohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16001716100325081340noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-83077828473776175042013-02-20T08:54:55.761-05:002013-02-20T08:54:55.761-05:00I think EVERYONE has fit issues with RTW. Even if...I think EVERYONE has fit issues with RTW. Even if you find a brand and size that fits you well, every other brand/size doesn't. And then your favorite brand/size will either go out of business or change their sizing formula. RTW has broken my heart too many times that I mostly don't buy it any more. I often buy thrift store clothes (most older clothes are better made) that are too large and alter them to fit. This is usually much cheaper than making them from scratch.Marshahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00012221977603507834noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-52502232956524942142013-02-20T08:42:05.107-05:002013-02-20T08:42:05.107-05:00Fitting issues - yes, a laundry list of them and t...Fitting issues - yes, a laundry list of them and they tend to change from year to year. I've been making my own clothes over 30 years, I'm not old just been sewing a long time :). My husband is tall and muscular and I've been making his dress shirts for over 15 years. Now that he's getting older he is having all kinds of fitting problems. So as soon as I saw that picture of the jacket on your blog in December I started collecting everything I need to make that jacket. I made the muslin or should I say I butchered the largest pattern I could find and got the fit the way he likes it. I'm waiting on a couple of supply items and should start construction next week. Can't wait to see him in that jacket. I can't wait to see you in your jacket!Teresahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09591939499006051921noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-6455005460159379502013-02-20T08:06:50.476-05:002013-02-20T08:06:50.476-05:00you're basically the same measurements as my h...you're basically the same measurements as my husband, who i just started sewing shirts for. the lack of well-fitting clothes didn't seem to bother him a ton, but after wearing his custom shirts made by me he was surprised and made the comment "i just feel more confident." not something he was expecting, really he just wanted to save a few bucks! <br /><br />for myself, i'm 5'8" with long legs, but a petite upper. try finding a petite tall in rtw! pants were always too short, sleeves too short, dresses that fit my hips were swimming on my upper half. since sewing and being able to fit my body, i really do feel less abnormal. also reading about other peoples fitting issues really opened my eyes to seeing that everyone has their own set of fitting challenges. lisa g.https://www.blogger.com/profile/09891757600316953288noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-67779095504154300192013-02-20T07:29:10.631-05:002013-02-20T07:29:10.631-05:00So much about fit in this issue sounds like my lit...So much about fit in this issue sounds like my litany of rtw complaints. I have to alter rtw a lot to get something to wear. I understand about making the jacket. I have been searching for a 3/4 length jacket to replace one I wear a lot and know I will have to sew it if I get another I like. It is such a pain to always have to sew everything or alter rtw which is my fate. I have jackets hanging with tags that the lined sleeves need to be redone and shortened. Of course the reward of being able to sew is having something to wear that I actually like and don't look stupid wearing out in public. People that lack fit problems are sooooo lucky.mssewcrazyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08610005723483105088noreply@blogger.com