tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post3629064160579678940..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: Have you read "Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion"?Peter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger56125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-32307812984920669152012-08-10T02:35:43.501-04:002012-08-10T02:35:43.501-04:00As a mom of four, I know the last thing a mom need...As a mom of four, I know the last thing a mom needs is the cheap junk of fast fashion for the little ones. Having knees blown out of the jeans a month after school starts isn't helpful. They don't grow that fast.<br /><br />GloriaAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-89937354134234296132012-08-05T22:57:23.713-04:002012-08-05T22:57:23.713-04:00Agree.
When I buy clothes, it's generally t-s...Agree.<br /><br />When I buy clothes, it's generally t-shirts on sale because, well, I hate sewing knits. And I like "trendy", snarky t-shirts. ;-)<br /><br />School uniforms are an EXCELLENT example of this trend.<br /><br />When you buy uniforms through "those" companies that charge an arm and a leg and a couple of internal organs for a plaid skirt & a cardigan, you can expect them to last a Very Long Time.<br /><br />Not so if you buy from JC Penney or the Evil Empire (WalMart). I buy our childrens' school uniforms from either Target or The Children's Place because those suckers LAST. I've had uniforms that were just as good as the first day that had been outgrown that I donated to the school uniform closet. The skirts I bought from JCP for last year? Didn't even last the year AND were more expensive than Target. BOOOOOOOOOOO I hate polyester. It stains, it picks and runs and it's itchy.<br /><br />For myself, I only buy new clothes on sale. Generally from Target or Old Navy. And my jeans? NOT $15 except on Black Friday. Try $30+ to get the correct length/fit.<br /><br />If it's something I want to last a long time? I make it myself.<br /><br />Why waste money on cheap clothes when I can spend it on cute shoes?Nina Suluhhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08616884472638151080noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34021428956123240942012-08-05T17:14:05.308-04:002012-08-05T17:14:05.308-04:00As I read this post, I am wearing a cotton knit ta...As I read this post, I am wearing a cotton knit tank top that I made about five years ago. It still fits, the colors are bright, it goes with most of my casual pants and skirts, and it still brings compliments. I am not a "cheap clothes" consumer because I hate wasting my money. I would rather buy good shoes.Bevnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-13068049516647771732012-08-04T19:36:33.035-04:002012-08-04T19:36:33.035-04:00I have just finished reading the book and it has r...I have just finished reading the book and it has really opened up my eyes. Although the book focuses on the USA, it is just as appropriate for any western nation, including me in my home town of Adelaide, South Australia. I'm 23 and my generation has grown up with fast-fashion and have never considered the consequences. Since reading the book I am changing my habits as I know that my love of clothing and fashion comes with a price and what I'm doing isn't sustainable. <br /><br />I am a huge fan of vintage clothing and have decided to start wearing my vintage clothes more often and avoid or limit 'new' purchases as much as I can. I am also learning to sew and have already altered several items that I already had in my closet. I've got a long way to go but it's a start.<br /><br />The truth is that I technically own enough clothes to last me a life time, except that they are mass-produced and would be lucky to last a few years before falling apart. How ironic.<br /><br />I now understand the importance of buying quality (and no, this doesn't necessarily mean a designer brand), and the importance of buying clothing made in one's home country. if you live in Aus/NZ you would no doubt me familiar with Cue and their sister brand Veronika Maine. These garments are made using fabric imported from Europe and are almost entirely made in Australia! Good quality fabric, fashion-forward designs and Australian made. Also they are still owned and run by he same family that started the company in the 60's! It is important to know where your garments came from and where they are constructed.<br /><br />I am so grateful for this book as it has really forced me to analyse my consumption and spending habits. If you haven't read it, please do. You will never look at another fast-fashion cheap chain store the same way ever again!Lauren R of Adelaidenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-21051045945330651352012-08-04T10:44:27.154-04:002012-08-04T10:44:27.154-04:00Forgive me if this comment has already been made, ...Forgive me if this comment has already been made, but something that's always been left out of the fast-fashion debates I've read is that some of us can't afford anything else. My clothing budget is miniscule (Gap's clearance rack is a little spendy for me). For those of us on the bottom end of the economic ladder, fast-fashion isn't a cheap thrill, it's a way to get the basics covered without spending days hunting the racks at GoodWill. I prefer good quality clothing when I can get it, and I'm willing to spend time on it (I do tailor my own clothing), but it's so nice be to able to walk into a store and know that I can buy what's there. Most other retailers are an exercise in frustration ... the clothes are beautiful and I know they'd last much longer, but when a tee-shirt costs more than my entire monthly clothing budget, the hope of getting something good quality becomes a pipe dream.Courtneyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02669757024638234591noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34751788919816140822012-07-30T10:39:47.428-04:002012-07-30T10:39:47.428-04:00i'm still wearing levis and mine last for a lo...i'm still wearing levis and mine last for a loooong time however, i can remember levis with selvage fabric and the denim used now is lighter. anyway, thanks for this wonderful blog and the great posts. i'm back to sewing after a(n) hiatus and making the clothing that i want to wear rather than that mfgs want me to wear. also, i know mine is made in ventura, california.junewlhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12261770009345484316noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-20563161790635211812012-07-26T15:15:39.748-04:002012-07-26T15:15:39.748-04:00The book and Peter's article is right on the m...The book and Peter's article is right on the money, much has changed in past 20 years, heck even less than that. Like many high tech industries, clothing is getting replaced with cheap crap made in vast quantities and making it such that no way someone here in USA (and other countries) can compete with industries in China. Ellyanna (out of Singapore) used to have a particular bouffant ballgown with shoulders (rare as most are strapless) but that was discontinued. There are several websites with such dresses and some even show the exact same Ellyanna gown (they simply lifted the image and put on their own website). You can the gown order online, provide all the measurements (it is cut to fit) and wait about a month later and it will be delivered direct from China. But here is the kicker, it is not the Ellyanna gown but a copycat as if someone looked at the image and made patterns. Material is ok, fit is ok, though a lot of shortcuts the final product not so great. Duplicating garments like DVDs? It's been done before but that's another story. <br /><br />Besides women's clothing I see the same in men's clothing. That expensive suit from Nordstroms is not same quality like it used to be in 1990's.<br /><br />Go way back to 1950's where many different styles from most beautiful dresses to -ugh- the sack dress can be bought off the shelf. And this stuff made by ILGWU was virtually indestructible. Really, get a vintage gown from ebay and you will be amazed by the sewing and construction particularly how it has held together for more than 50 years. Drawback is material probably lost some of its pizzass as the threads molecular structure tends to break down over time.<br /><br />So what is the most cost effective way of good clothes? Expensive and well made (if you can find it) which last a long time. Or cheap stuff that wears out quickly so you have to go back again and again (which travel and time costs add up) that has environmental impacts, etc.<br /><br />Thanks to Peter for the provoking article and the book by Elizabeth Cline.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-41040202786107816732012-07-26T12:31:55.691-04:002012-07-26T12:31:55.691-04:00Read this article from Slate -- "The Afterlif...Read this article from Slate -- "The Afterlife of Cheap Clothes."<br /><br />http://www.slate.com/articles/life/fashion/2012/06/the_salvation_army_and_goodwill_inside_the_places_your_clothes_go_when_you_donate_them_.htmlPeter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-29310820048667474372012-07-25T13:38:48.190-04:002012-07-25T13:38:48.190-04:00This book sounds great and I will definitely check...This book sounds great and I will definitely check it out. I just need to put my two cents in as someone who works in the garment industry and as an advocate of home sewing. This issue of cheap fast fashion is a double edged sword regarding job creation and cost. Consumers are not prepared to pay for quality because the prices would be much more than the average person is prepared to spend, and with unemployment being what it is who can justify the purchase of a $200 blouse when their friends have the latest and greatest fashion trend each day courtesy of fast fashion and are stuck wearing that blouse every other day. Consumers do not realize how pinched manufacturers are to sell at price points dicated by retailers. No one wants to pay for anything. I have to look at a basic blouse and figure out how to make it a dollar cheaper. It's like squeezing water from stone. Actually it's depressing. I read customer reviews of the products I make and I see comments like "well, for $39.99 I was expecting more quality". Ok, you have a 39.99 garment, 50% of that goes to the store Maybe 20% goes to the manufacturer, 15% goes to fabric, 10% goes to shipping and importing and the rest goes to the sewing. This is just an approximation, but that 39.99 doesn't go very far in the production scheme not to mention that the dollar is incrediby weak against the Yuan, and cotton prices are sky high. Oh and for those who hate synthetic products it is an extra duty fee to import natural fibers. It's apocalyptic to me and I sometimes feel that the pressures on the garment industry will cause it to implode. If you work in the industry you just have to be very thankful to even have a job because small manufacturers are closing shop at a very rapid pace. <br />That said if you want quality and sustainability- make it youself.Suzyhttp://www.sbccstudio.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-46562257720705131622012-07-25T12:16:01.371-04:002012-07-25T12:16:01.371-04:00Interesting post and comments. We are looking at ...Interesting post and comments. We are looking at the maw of greed, folks--we who love clothes and fabrics love lots of them, and we are paying a health price for food greed, and an environmental price for speed and mobility greed. What if we resisted the calls to this monster and tried restraint as a goal instead? It calls for a kind of spiritual discipline that is very challenging, especially when the loud marketplace has so many messages in our faces that drive us in the opposite direction. It is not easy but it is worthwhile to pioneer this path.Kristinanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-84068479275078219992012-07-25T06:18:34.888-04:002012-07-25T06:18:34.888-04:00Then again, the problem with desiring to purchase ...Then again, the problem with desiring to purchase ethically made clothes or decent, sturdy clothes, is that they're expensive in the short term. For example, jeans that are $50 but will last you 10 years, versus ones wear the seams and crotch wear out in 1.5 years.<br />Its like buying relatively unhealthy foods at some fast food joint or cost cutter grocery versus buying food at the farmer's market or a co op that's not so local. You have to eat now and have enough money to feed several people.<br />It is: you have to buy clothes now and clothe several children.<br /><br />Its a tough personal choice for some people.<br />I wanna read this book though... now that you bring this up.Murasakitanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11022279994134440031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-15563521739192038212012-07-25T06:10:12.693-04:002012-07-25T06:10:12.693-04:00I've been chastized for keeping clothes too lo...I've been chastized for keeping clothes too long. Maybe because a XL doesn't work on an 2XL body?<br /><br />I had a hunch that something like this is happening. Womens clothes are particularly flimsy, and I'm unhappy about that. See through shirts that are to be thrown away in a few weeks.<br /><br />If you look at the hand stitched clothing in the era before sewing machines, they were made to LAST. Sturdy stitching, places were patched and re-patched... etc.<br /><br />If you consider socks today, if they get holes in them, you throw them away. People of the past used to darn their socks, for centuries. How many modern people know how to do that? There are hundreds of year old socks that are still in decent condition, and have been darned.<br /><br />I (and others) looked at one of my teachers with scorn. He had a sweater he loved and it had patches in it. We asked him why he didn't just throw it out.<br /><br />I dunno. There are ways to recycle fabric. I love the recycled cotton yarn. <3 Its just that.. recycling isn't fashionable. My aunt approaches me with scorn: "Why you tearing that up????" even if the item is old and worn.Murasakitanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11022279994134440031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-53497796684193466892012-07-25T00:48:30.891-04:002012-07-25T00:48:30.891-04:00black t-shirts from Old navy. Yup, I have a sligh...black t-shirts from Old navy. Yup, I have a slight addiction. I do tend to alter or embellish them. Agree with what everyone said about denim. Carharts is another good work wear brand if you are not a Wranglers girl. I am years from being able to make a pair of jeans. I'm still at the stage of sewing where only about half of what I make isn't crap, but i look forward to my 9glacially changing) skills improving.woolywomanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14798060848062776281noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-84778474497688283112012-07-24T18:31:33.583-04:002012-07-24T18:31:33.583-04:00Oh boy, is cheap clothing on my mind...
* Just go...Oh boy, is cheap clothing on my mind...<br /><br />* Just got back from a trip to Wyoming. Once again, seeing the average American on the move is a shock: So much shoddy, poorly made, poorly fitting clothing!<br /><br />* My Chinese-born hairdresser, whom I saw today, has cousins visiting from China. Their big thrill: Visiting the outlet mall in Woodburn (south of Portland), where they can buy made-in-China clothing FOR A FRACTION OF THE PRICE that it would cost in China. Is that crazy or what?<br /><br />* I too am tired of the "dress a day" approach to sewing and have stopped reading some blogs as a result. Really, you need all that? What about learning some couture techniques and producing beautiful garments that will last?<br /><br />* On the positive side, the no-waste method of pattern designing has emerged. Let's hope it picks up steam.....Jean Snoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-19489442172286216902012-07-24T14:44:27.122-04:002012-07-24T14:44:27.122-04:00I have two library systems to choose from and the ...I have two library systems to choose from and the city system didn't even have this book. I am #40-something on the wait list for a copy through the county system.<br /><br />I checked out amazon to read reviews and get an answer to my main question (what happens to donated clothes). List price is $25 (and change) and it is on sale for $15 (and change). The reviews answered my question.<br /><br />While reading reviews, I received three emails telling me how I can get xyz for "cheap" or "half price". Hmmm......<br /><br />I see a trend here.....KarinSDCAnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-62799603893778221242012-07-24T04:06:34.343-04:002012-07-24T04:06:34.343-04:00Great post, Peter! I have not read the book but I&...Great post, Peter! I have not read the book but I've been thinking about the problem of the growing fast fashion (and the consumerism) for a while. People like us can make a difference but on a global scale we are just a drop of water in the ocean of the vulgarity and the mass consumption. I would like to believe in the better outcome, but unfortunately, I'm being pretty pessimistic, unless something major happens on a larger scale.Thewallinnahttp://thewallinna.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-90872920554141945442012-07-23T23:37:06.453-04:002012-07-23T23:37:06.453-04:00"And, you know, sometimes we just don't w..."And, you know, sometimes we just don't want to care about the big-picture stuff: there, I said it."<br /><br />"The population of China alone is more than 1.3 billion and growing. And, according to Cline, they want their fast fashion too and who are we to deny it to them when we've already had ours?"<br /><br />Two very excellent points. It's hard to be virtuous all the time, and it's unfair for us to expect virtue from those who haven't yet had what we have. It makes for difficult and intractable questions!The Slapdash Sewisthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11668474749166329852noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81116109150701068232012-07-23T11:10:12.908-04:002012-07-23T11:10:12.908-04:00I will avoid most of the issues here, because I ha...I will avoid most of the issues here, because I have not read the book, I feel they are discussed a lot by other people and I have nothing to add.<br /><br />The only thing I want to react to: Do you know any details about the claim that most donated clothing will not be worn? What happens to the clothing? Is it just an American thing, or is it some sort of worldwide study, or what<i>ever</i> is it?Hana - Marmotahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03532515160608083460noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-8028620099267816922012-07-23T10:29:30.174-04:002012-07-23T10:29:30.174-04:00SABLE!!!SABLE!!!Testosteronenoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-14832351645603765512012-07-23T09:13:58.582-04:002012-07-23T09:13:58.582-04:00I just finished this book and couldn't put it ...I just finished this book and couldn't put it down. Engrossing and slightly horrifying, is probably how I'd put it. While I've been aware for many years of a lot of the waste and dodgy practices of clothing manufacturers, reading this just made me sick all over again.<br /><br />And then I realized that no matter how much I love to thrift and sew (which I do a lot--especially thrifting; I do that at least once a week!) and try my best to keep my fashion choices as minimum impact as possible, I can't entirely do that. I like how you equated it to fast food. I rarely eat it (and my "fast food" is usually a Five Guys burger, which I think is on a slightly better level than McD's! ;) lol.). But sometimes I do enjoy it. I don't shop a lot at major retailers; very occasionally I'll buy something at *coughcough* Forever21 (usually costume jewelry) or H&M. But I find now more often than not, I'm just too put off by the construction "quality" to bother. <br /><br />After I read this book, I went on a hunt to find some made in the USA shoe retailers, thinking that I'd much prefer to buy fewer shoes that are made domestically than lots of cheaply made ones from sketchy factories overseas. Alas, all I could really find was one company that made clogs. Cute, but not entirely my style. The few other companies that are still made here (and which I would love to support to help the economy at home), are orthopedic looking or just plain ugly. <br /><br />I find this too with "ethically made" clothing and accessory lines. What they produce is not always in line with current trends or even "classic" (non hippie) styles. While I think a handful of us who do not have gobs of cash to spend on clothing would be happy to save and buy better made products that are better for the environment and the local economy, it's just not possible any more. As much as we try to avoid it, Target and the mall still are the go-to place for basics (even if you sew--how many people sew their own undies or fashion their own shoes? I just don't have the skills or time...).<br /><br />Still, I think this book made me rethink some of my sewing and thrifting habits. As a few commenters brought up: both can still promote the "more! more! more!" mindset you find in fast fashion. As someone who is guilty of *ahem* being a packrat, it's made me realize more fully that I do need to be aware of my sewing and thrifting choices--even though it's less impactful on the larger scale.Caseyhttp://elegantmusings.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-67945602954028251742012-07-23T07:16:04.740-04:002012-07-23T07:16:04.740-04:00It's a great book my take-away is that sewers ...It's a great book my take-away is that sewers are not immune from responsibility either and we shouldn't feel too virtuous because so many of us accumulate a fabric stash that reaches SABLE proportions (Stash Accumulation Beyond Life Expectancy). After reading about the environmental impact of textile production I think my new motto will be that old Yankee advice of "Use it up, wear it out, make it do - or do without"Phyllishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04668161467072636784noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-18149192232276893522012-07-22T23:16:00.715-04:002012-07-22T23:16:00.715-04:00Great post! I would add that our society is so ac...Great post! I would add that our society is so accustomed to the availability of fast fashion and the disposableness of it that the young are appalled at the idea of a garment lasting for years. My niece had two boys 14 months apart and told me that "hand-me-downs are not fair." She bought all new for the second child. Sigh...Maryhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02983019041469120523noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-52264910572692350332012-07-22T18:57:31.183-04:002012-07-22T18:57:31.183-04:00The book sounds like a good read! I don't shop...The book sounds like a good read! I don't shop in the cheap fast fashion world, as these closes tend not to fit my figure very well. I'm in the camp with buying more pricey items that are classics and will be worn many times. <br /><br />My biggest pet peeve is the fact that it starts with our children. I make children's clothing and sell it on Etsy, and while I'm sure a lot of young parents can't really afford too many of the things I make, I don't think I have them outrageously priced. I use only natural fibers, and my pieces are intended to be heirloom quality, yet I can just imagine that most people would say," I don't want to spend that, because they are just going to out grow it." Sad, because you can hand the pieces down, and they will out last anything that is sold at Target, etc. The only children's line in this country, as far as mass produced, that I think is pretty good is Gap kids, even though most of it is produced in China. I have many of their pieces, and I have kept them, but for the most part, American children's clothing is horrific! Too bright and garish. I love the esthetic of French and Italian children's clothing. More muted colors, and classic designs that will never go out of style, and can be handed down to their siblings. Also the clothes are sweet, and not little copies of adult clothing. While living in France, I loved watching how smartly dressed the little kids were, and the high quality of the clothing. Don't even get me started on the shoes!!!<br /><br />I may never sell very many of my things, but the few pieces that I have, I feel good knowing that someone cared enough to buy something with quality!!!Elizabethhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02026706261655333994noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-1914493709608045582012-07-22T13:54:10.165-04:002012-07-22T13:54:10.165-04:00This topic has been on my mind lately, as I've...This topic has been on my mind lately, as I've recently had to do some fast-fashion shopping for an event that was scheduled on short notice. I didn't have time to make anything, or to save up for a good quality outfit. So off to the mall (and strip shopping centers) I went.<br /><br />I confess, I was grateful to be able to find presentable clothes for cheap. But I know that nothing I bought will last more than a few wearings, and that's frustrating to know.<br /><br />I live in town full of cute little charity thrift shops. A new one just opened up, and interestingly, they do not accept clothing donations.Ms. Mhttp://departmentofcolor.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81638367862776956762012-07-22T13:30:59.658-04:002012-07-22T13:30:59.658-04:00I agree-- Many of the "better" brands ar...I agree-- Many of the "better" brands are only slightly better-made than what you find in Wal-Mart. And I can honestly say, I've sometimes found better quality in discount stores than at boutiques. It's all very unpredictable. <br /><br />And I think some of the better luxury brands have seen this, that people are willing to spend for quality; and they are taking advantage by raising their prices even higher.Ms. Mhttp://departmentofcolor.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.com