tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post2072023299039863300..comments2023-10-20T08:27:40.314-04:00Comments on male pattern boldness: Kwik Sew Men's Western Jacket -- MUSLINPeter Lappinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-57550016479922534562017-02-24T01:55:02.249-05:002017-02-24T01:55:02.249-05:00thanks a lot, I want it for my next project .thanks a lot, I want it for my next project .Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17687947746657993579noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-66916214187005896802017-02-23T20:04:27.551-05:002017-02-23T20:04:27.551-05:00Try vintage Butterick 5856. It looks just as good...Try vintage Butterick 5856. It looks just as good.<br /><br />https://www.etsy.com/listing/495351430/vintage-butterick-factory-folded-denim?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=butterick%205856&ref=sr_gallery_9Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-404990638523210632017-02-23T19:51:21.291-05:002017-02-23T19:51:21.291-05:00Thanks been looking for months nowThanks been looking for months nowAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17687947746657993579noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-68555989787775550092017-02-21T07:23:41.289-05:002017-02-21T07:23:41.289-05:00Try Etsy or eBay. It shows up quite often.Try Etsy or eBay. It shows up quite often.Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-89291445742383976742017-02-20T18:57:30.370-05:002017-02-20T18:57:30.370-05:00how can i get this pattern? how can i get this pattern? Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17687947746657993579noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34579968569576689342010-10-28T18:01:32.742-04:002010-10-28T18:01:32.742-04:00Thanks, Frank. I appreciate your input!Thanks, Frank. I appreciate your input!Peter Lappinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05109154527996679077noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-13783928033105855142010-10-28T14:25:34.569-04:002010-10-28T14:25:34.569-04:00The height of the slv cap doesn't necessarily ...The height of the slv cap doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the slope of shoulders but more with how wide the shoulders are across, point to point. A slv cap made for a garment that has a normal or slightly narrower shoulder point placement would have a higher slv cap whereas a garment with an drop shoulder or more across shoulder would have less slv cap. Most pattern drafters (including myself) have been taught through theory and practice that you should have anywhere from 3/4" up to 2" slv cap ease depending on the fabric and styling of the garment to allow for a smoother finishing over the shoulder. Unfortunately commerical pattern company pattern drafters can not always be sure what fabric the end consumer of the pattern will use (despite giving recommendations) and they tend to over compensate. Also, your jean jacket slv was probably drafted to be more like a suit's two piece slv and conform more to the body's natural arm position (as explained above by another poster). Your AA garment is mass produced. It will use methods and techniques that accomodate .....that garment's end price point, not to say that it's wrong but the reason slv/side seams are usually stitched all in one is to save sewing time. You get a better hanging slv if it's sewen in the round. And the facings of your commerical pattern were made the way they were so that when the garment is worn and lapels open, the wrong side of the fabric doesn't show. But either way is "correct", it just depends on the end use, fabric and styling preference. A company i used to work for we did jean jackets all the time and we successfully used both facing methods. Also it's easier and cleaner to set the front of the collar when using shaped out facings that extend to the shoulder, you'r only left with the back neck to finish up on, which a lot of home sewers probably appreciate. FrankAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-43704151632099249252010-10-27T02:44:08.812-04:002010-10-27T02:44:08.812-04:00Peter, my Mum would be very disappointed in you! C...Peter, my Mum would be very disappointed in you! Cutting the sleeve was a big no no when I was taught to sew by Aunt and Mum as a little girl. Apparently you HAVE to ease in all the sleeve to have enough Functional Ease (check out Cal Patch's Design Your Own Clothes for more on this) to move your arm comfortably. In saying all of that, I always used to cut where Mum could just 'magic' the sleeve in! I think it might be instruction, then lots of practice!kathchownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01184901366682036147noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-69430554032559287452010-10-25T12:15:21.356-04:002010-10-25T12:15:21.356-04:00All of these armhole/sleeve tips are super helpful...All of these armhole/sleeve tips are super helpful! I thought it was just me.<br /><br />And Peter, CUTE jacket! I'm loving the idea of it in boiled wool with a hot pink lining… scrumptious!<br /><br />Can't wait to see how this all comes together!Darcihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02936847220360997738noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-65331026506323568652010-10-25T09:00:33.786-04:002010-10-25T09:00:33.786-04:00P.S.
Oh, that's interesting what tdu000 said a...P.S.<br />Oh, that's interesting what tdu000 said about Italian shirts. <br /><br />I guess the moral of the story is to look at the gold standard of what your are trying to achieve. <br /><br />In my opinion, that would be a Levi's jacket. But if you want to try out a more European fit, perhaps those Italian shirts or an Armani version of the jeans jacket?Bettyhttp://futurewardrobe.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-34446181927725632412010-10-25T08:50:33.204-04:002010-10-25T08:50:33.204-04:00It's been my experience that most patterns (in...It's been my experience that most patterns (including Kwik Sew) tend to have poorly drafted sleeves with way too much ease. I don't totally agree with the Fashion Incubator theory, but yeah, commercial patterns are awful when it comes to sleeves. I routinely check them and routinely take out anywhere from a half-inch to a whole inch of ease, depending on the style and the fabric.<br /><br />On shirt-style sleeves (which it looks like this jacket has), there should be no ease, period. You were smart to compare it to Michael's jacket.Bettyhttp://futurewardrobe.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-68176381430967443082010-10-25T05:45:19.468-04:002010-10-25T05:45:19.468-04:00Love that pattern, its going to be a nice looking ...Love that pattern, its going to be a nice looking jacket. I don't think it needed to be shortened. To make the jacket a bit longer will show of your figure better and look more modern.<br /><br />Waxed denim is nice.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-36827091989519246142010-10-25T02:18:43.179-04:002010-10-25T02:18:43.179-04:00hi there,
I used the modern Kwik Sew pattern for ...hi there, <br />I used the modern Kwik Sew pattern for this jacket, all the lining up and sleeve cap were fine, albeit, the sleeves a little bulky, and the collar to big for contemporary taste. I used faux suede from the decorator department in the fabric store. okay to sew with regular needles but you need a strong machine. Alas, the fabric is unforgiving and will show every stitch hole (I had difficulties with the front and it shows). Great affect achieved with the material. Paid a lot for the buttons, but the choice proofed worthy all the top stitching and the many pieces in the pattern. With your eye for fabric you can take this and make it evening wear. Imagine this in boiled baby blue wool or in navy with hot pink lining. Mine is a maroon because natural suede tones go with everything. you will take it to new heights.sartoriusnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-15460334129295807702010-10-24T23:46:49.679-04:002010-10-24T23:46:49.679-04:00Facings can be so totally stupid and unnecessary c...Facings can be so totally stupid and unnecessary can't they? I have a Kwik Sew pattern for a mandarin-collar shirt which is either sleeveless or has small cap sleeves, and it has sleeve hole facings. They are annoying, don't sit well and look really obvious inside thin shirt fabric. Didn't help that I put the first one in back-to-front and had to unpick umpteen layers I had already trimmed. I choose self-fabric bias binding instead. <br />When you get to your next flat-felled seams, could you possibly show a few pics of how to do them?<br />And yes that is a terribly well-finished muslin. What do you do with your muslins in the end?Janehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-20158046578832704422010-10-24T23:13:09.033-04:002010-10-24T23:13:09.033-04:00Top stitching on a muslin? I think you already hav...Top stitching on a muslin? I think you already have a jacket and want to know what to make the next one out of!Sewingellehttp://beurreblanc.wordpress.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-79582815973048932082010-10-24T22:40:06.696-04:002010-10-24T22:40:06.696-04:00I hate to mention this, but don't you have som...I hate to mention this, but don't you have some unused faux python?PeterAUSnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-81601891489836315622010-10-24T21:23:21.349-04:002010-10-24T21:23:21.349-04:00All the comments about how to adjust the sleeve to...All the comments about how to adjust the sleeve to fit into the armscye appropriately REALLY HELPED me!!! Thanks to all! YAY--IT'S NOT JUST ME! I can DO this!elviranoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-25492161194964951662010-10-24T20:06:44.794-04:002010-10-24T20:06:44.794-04:00Wait--- all these comments and not one person has ...Wait--- all these comments and not one person has teased you about using the infamous AA jacket for reference? What, have we all learned manners in the past week? Am I supposed to rib a stranger all by myself?<br /><br />I like a massive collar myself, but I've already admitted to having iffy taste.<br /><br />Is brocade out of the question? If you WERE to make another cord jacket, would you consider cutting some pieces sideways to create horizontal ribs on your finished garment? I did that for a bag once, it was snazzy.Rebekahhttp://www.jauntydame.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-62610896279210535262010-10-24T18:18:23.142-04:002010-10-24T18:18:23.142-04:00Armholes are a bugger, aren't they. I'm of...Armholes are a bugger, aren't they. I'm often left wondering if it's more my own incompetence at setting them in, than a problem with the pattern. Except for that beginners project in syn. shantung. I set that right sleeve in four times, damn it, then gave up and trimmed. <br /><br />I had to look very closely at your muslin Peter. It looked decidedly peculiar on you with such long sleeves projecting past the jacket, like a ladies cropped jacket, and I thought fashion alert! fashion alert! (and boy it's bad if a dag like me picks up on it). Then I noticed the unfinished cuffs, der.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-88620448216315484212010-10-24T18:01:40.101-04:002010-10-24T18:01:40.101-04:00I'm with anon above: if the pieces you have do...I'm with anon above: if the pieces you have don't do what you want, kludge something else together. For years, I hated making blouses and only used wool that I could steam shrink for jackets as every pattern had impossibly high sleeve caps, much higher than ready to wear. I used to pin in the sleeve and just move the cap higher when I pinned instead of cutting off a piece beforehand. Always worked just fine. You could never have used Gertie's horsehair gathering on the old sleeves as the patterns simply didn't fit. Wrinkled sleeve caps used to be a giveaway for who made their clothes.<br /><br />Love the muslin fabric, too. Ya, printed corduroy or denim or maybe a vintage cotton velour? What kind of fasteners are you going to be putting on? <br /><br />Glad you're feeling better and back to the old cutting table. And, bad boy, I just bought 12m of buy 1 get 2 free corduroy in my colours: yellow, coral, celadon green and bottle green. Your cord suit got to me, ha! Going to make 3 jackets & a skirt to go with my other bits.<br />HeatherAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-14573672460934745642010-10-24T17:38:49.958-04:002010-10-24T17:38:49.958-04:00Every sleeve pattern I have used in decades has ha...Every sleeve pattern I have used in decades has had way too high sleeve caps. As far as the sleeve seams not matching up, I decided long ago that instead of drafting a pattern from scratch, they take pieces from other patterns and just throw them together and call it a pattern. Very often the sleeves are not the ones pictured in the front drawing. This is why I have been doing something similar to what Bratling does.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-35698821636765102012010-10-24T17:26:55.769-04:002010-10-24T17:26:55.769-04:00I'd wear the muslin. I find that a lot of vin...I'd wear the muslin. I find that a lot of vintage patterns have excess sleeve cap. I'm always trimming them down.Carolhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11274649006496918800noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-5156121224513804402010-10-24T16:13:19.460-04:002010-10-24T16:13:19.460-04:00That has happened to me with sleeves, too. So I c...That has happened to me with sleeves, too. So I cheat. I install the sleeves flat, cut off the excess, and sew the sleeve and side in one continuous seam. It looks the same as the pictures, only it works much better.Laurahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07717835382469677601noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-25641190685979762352010-10-24T15:33:27.755-04:002010-10-24T15:33:27.755-04:00nice fabric on the muslin! I'd go with a print...nice fabric on the muslin! I'd go with a print, or leather. I like the idea of a print, or weathered leather. What machine are you using for this project?Andreahttp://www.caperandco.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1991166428290808171.post-20069366103648960512010-10-24T15:17:55.168-04:002010-10-24T15:17:55.168-04:00As others have said, a two-piece sleeve wouldn'...As others have said, a two-piece sleeve wouldn't usually have a seam meeting the side seam. However, when sewing a standard one-piece sleeve, I always rotate the sleeve sleeve forwards so that the sleeve under seam is positioned about 1.5 cm infront of the side seam of the body of the garment (this varies with the size of the person I'm sewing for). This is because the human arm is actually rotated sligntly forward in relation to the body the body, not symmetrically vertical, so you get a better and more comfortable fit of the sleeve if you do the same when setting it. Most pattern companies won't do this but a well-drafted two piece sleeve takes this into account (look at the sleeve of a well-tailored jacket and see how the leeve hangs forward not vertically). I draft my own patterns using an Italian method of drafting and I believe the sleeve rotation is a standard of Italian quality tailoring so it is possible shirts you've bought where the under arm seams don't align are quality Italian shirts.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com