Working on My First Safari Jacket

Readers, more than five years ago I purchased this Australian Bush Outfit pattern, Folkwear 130, with the intention of making a safari jacket.

It never happened, I don't remember exactly why.  I seem to recall that when I examined the pattern, it looked like it would need a lot of adjusting.  Which is strange, because when I finally traced my size (36) from the pattern, it needed no adjusting at all.

I had never worked with a Folkwear pattern before.  The drafting of this particular pattern is excellent and the instructions are extremely clear.  The pattern paper is heavy and high quality.  I'm glad I traced my size so that I can use the pattern again for others if I choose to.  I use canary yellow tracing paper from the art supply store and colored pencils to trace my pattern.

I don't enjoy tracing patterns as it is very time-consuming.  I'm a little spoiled since I usually use vintage patterns that are in just one size so there's no tracing necessary.

Originally I was going to whip up a test garment using some cheap solid fabric from my stash but then I remembered that at the flea market last week I'd picked up some wonderful vintage Seventies cotton canvas prints.  Using one of those would be fun and maybe it would turn into a wearable muslin.

The print below is the one I decided to use.  I only paid about $3 for the fabric so it was actually cheaper than the muslin I usually use to make test garments.  I guess you'd call it a bandana print that also has oversized flowers -- why not?  It's bottom weight cotton canvas but still relatively light.

 I even have a photo of the original swatch of the fabric giving all its information.  Cool, no?

Putting the jacket together wasn't difficult but it did take quite a bit of time since this jacket has four large front pockets, each with its own pocket flap.  I lined my flaps with solid khaki twill.

I also added two interior pockets, one a breast patch pocket and another large zippered pocket at the hip. 

In addition to all the pockets, the jacket also has epaulets.  I don't think I'm going to make the belt as I don't think it's necessary.

The jacket has a one-piece camp-style collar and front facings.  The closures (which I have yet to add) will probably be plastic buttons.  I thought about chrome gripper snaps but now I'm leaning toward something more classic.  I'm also deciding whether I want to make the buttonholes myself or spring for having them made at Jonathan Embroidery.  I haven't been there since Covid arrived and I'd like to help support their business.  Plus professional buttonholes always look better, especially on outerwear (I find that for shirts my Singer buttonholer attachment buttonholes look great).

I cut the fronts on two layers of folded fabric without thinking of how the motifs would look and I will admit to not being happy about how the two fronts looked next to each other.  I would never have cut the fronts this way intentionally.  The repeat is nearly the same on both sides.

After the addition of the pockets and pocket flaps, however, the problem is almost entirely disguised.  Let's hear it for large pockets!

I know this jacket is more than a little "out there" but it makes me happy and I can't wait to be able to wear it.  Hopefully I'll get the buttons and have the buttonholes made this week.

And that's it!

Friends, I hope you're all well and busy sewing.  I'll post a photoshoot of the jacket sometime later this month.  

Have you ever made a Folkwear pattern?  If so, which one(s)?

Happy sewing, everybody!