Reverse-print Wearable Muslin REVEAL!

Readers, this week I whipped up a shirt -- a wearable muslin really -- from a vintage McCalls pattern I've had in my stash for years. 

McCall's 5389 dates from around 1960 and, as you can see, it's a "popover-style" pullover shirt.  I sewed a knit shirt like this four years ago but I've never made one with a woven fabric or in a convertible collar style.

The instructions are a little complicated.  The front placket is somewhat similar to a sleeve placket, only since it's a convertible collar shirt, the collar has to be sandwiched between the facings (which are part of the placket) and the two front extensions (which are also formed by the placket pieces).  You have to remember which side goes over which and you can't stitch down the placket till the collar is attached.

Also, since the front is all one piece, you can't attach the back yokes using the burrito method (I don't think) so you have to finish the yoke the old-fashioned way: the outer yoke first, by machine, and then the inside yoke, either by hand or by machine, after the collar is attached.  It's not difficult per se, but it's not the way I'm used to making shirts.  A popover shirt with a collar stand would be easier to make since there are no facings.

I used the reverse side of this lightweight tropical print sent to me by a reader (Michael C?) years ago.  (I'd used it once before in a failed attempt to create a well-fitting bucket hat.)  I reversed it because the "right" side is a little too vibrant and high-contrast for my coloring.  The reverse or "wrong" side is much more subdued.

Since this was a muslin, I simply serged my side and armscye seams and then stitched them down to create faux flat-felled seams -- much faster.  If I make this again in a better fabric (and I think I will) I'll probably make true flat-felled seams.

The only adjustment I made to the original pattern was to shorten the length of the center placket by two inches.  Next time I'll also adjust the sleeve by taking out some of the ease (there's no need for any in a shirt this style) and shortening the length an inch or so.  I don't think think there's anything else I'd change: I like a roomy fit in a vintage-type shirt.

I used ordinary vintage plastic buttons from my stash, nothing fancy.  I really like the way the hem is curved toward the side seams.  It's a nice detail you don't find in contemporary shirt patterns.

Since this was a muslin, I didn't think much about pattern placement (and naturally there's no matching of right and left fronts since it's all one piece) but I like where the motifs ended up--it's actually a very busy design, with hibiscus flowers, palm trees, and even dolphins!

I think reversing the fabric was a good call.  It gives the shirt a weathered, softer look.

And that's it, readers!  Next up I think I'll try this again in a better fabric.

In the meantime, have a great day everybody and happy sewing!