Getting Started on My 70's Butterick Jacket

I don't know why I love this men's jacket pattern, Butterick 4362, but I do.

Maybe it's the Seventies vibe, the slightly blousy sleeves, or the inverted back pleat.



I started working on it yesterday and I hope to finish tomorrow.  It's a bit more complicated than it looks, assuming you don't think it looks complicated.

My fabric is that beautiful grayish-blue cotton-linen blend I bought a few months ago.  Cutting it took quite a while; these days I cut everything in a single layer, especially when the fabric has a visible grain line, as this one does.  It's always worth the extra effort.



I also needed to chose my thread color and to rethread my serger (which I used to finish a few of the inside seams).



I ended up opting for gray thread for topstitching (and there's a lot of topstitching on this jacket) even though it's barely visible.



I attached the sleeve open rather than in the round, as the instructions would have you do.  This way I could use the technique I learned from my menswear sewing class.  It worked splendidly.







I even used my Elnapress for the first time in a long time.





Here's the back pleat -- I love it, though I may stitch it closed about 3-4 inches up from the waistband to keep things looking neat.



I decided to keep the original Seventies collar.  I could have narrowed it, but I like it as is -- it makes more of a statement (which hopefully is not, Do you want to roller boogie?)





I still have to attach the cuffs, the inside yoke (which is stitched mainly by hand for some reason), and the inverted-pleat pockets and pocket flaps.  Also buttons and buttonholes.  I haven't decided what kind of buttons to use.  Any suggestions?





I think the completed jacket will look elegant.

Like I said, I hope to finish this tomorrow so I can start my pants.  I haven't decided yet whether to use the pants from the Butterick pattern, or the more Elvis-inspired pants from McCalls 5119.



And that's it!

Have a great day, everybody!