Getting Started on Cathy's Floral Rayon Day Dress

Readers, I am happy to report that Cathy's new frock, McCall's 4752 (from 1942, I believe) is coming along smoothly.

You'll recall that I'm using a rayon print I found at the flea market on Saturday for $5.  I'm not certain that it's truly vintage, but to me it has a very Forties feel. (You may or may not know that I have an entire Pinterest board devoted to the fabric of the Forties.)



As I mentioned on Sunday's vlog, there were a few small tears in the fabric, but fortunately I was able to cut around them.  (If I'd noticed them at the market I might have passed on the fabric so I'm glad I didn't!)

The only pattern adjustment I generally make on these vintage patterns (Size 18, 36" bust) is to add 1/2" to each waist seem allowance and to extend the length of the bodice by 1".



The rayon cut like butta' -- very easy to work with though it's a little shifty.  Very few of the seams are cut parallel to the selvage so there's a minimum of fraying.  I serged the seam allowances that seemed likely to fray (like the side bodice seams).



I thought about underlining the bodice but decided against it (Cathy will be wearing a full slip) -- I want to keep this light.  I interfaced the neck facings with a very lightweight fusible from Steinlauf & Stoller.  Naturally I tested on a sample first.



The dress is full of tucks and small pleats.  The tucks look soft and creamy in this fabric.



The bodice front and center front skirt seam have topstitching detail; I opted for matching thread as it seemed the safest choice.





Here's a peek at the collar.



I was going to insert a regular side zipper, as per the very densely detailed, one-page instructions, but I only had an invisible zipper that was long enough, so I used that.  I was a little nervous attaching it to this shifty rayon but it worked great.  I used a regular zipper foot first and followed up with an invisible zipper foot.





The sleeves went on without a hitch -- big Joan Crawford shoulder pads will be inserted.  Tomorrow I'll work on the matching belt and start the bolero jacket.  I may make the jacket out of one of these two green cottons I found at the Salvation Army this afternoon (both sheets, one moss, one celadon).   I'm leaning toward making it reversible, which means I won't have to finish seam allowances.





This silk faille from Elliott Berman is another possibility if I want to go luxe.  I won it at a Pattern Review party.



And that's it.  It's always fun to return to dressmaking -- it's been a long time.  In a way dresses are easier than menswear but they require much more fitting.  Luckily Cathy's subletting nearby.

Hope your sewing projects are going well.

Have a great day, everybody!

BIG shoulder pad.