Jan 26, 2014

What to Sew Next?



At the flea market this morning, a suitcase full of vintage sewing stuff.

Anything good in here?  Ooh -- a cocktail dress pattern!



I wish I could say I often find patterns at the flea market, but I don't.  Finding an "after-five" frock like this in Cathy's size is even less common.  And at $5, it's within my mad-money budget.

View B, naturally.

Butterick 9690 dates from 1961.  It isn't a very complex pattern -- a surplice bodice with attached fitted skirt -- so it might be just the thing to make using a more challenging fabric like chiffon (one of the suggested fabrics).



Here are the pattern pieces:



And here are some instruction details; please pardon the vintage stains:



















I may opt for this over the 1940's Vogue pannier gown, if only because it will fit more easily through doorways.

I must confess to some concern about Cathy and cummerbunds, but perhaps with the requisite corsetry and crash diets, it won't be an issue, especially if we're talking all black. 

And who doesn't love a shoulder drape?

What would you make this dress with and, if shears, what would you underline (or line) it with?

Have a great day, everybody!

27 comments:

  1. I think white a black would be a great combination for this. Class and distinction!

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  2. I love the fuller skirt version, which might help your cumberbund concerns And an underlining in stretch satin?

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  3. I personally love the look of a surprise top but can't wear one without extra help in keeping it closed when not standing in a perfectly erect posture. I'm sure Cathy won't "mind the gap" though!

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  4. I sincerely hope you make the version with the shoulder drape!

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  5. I think everything in the universe should be underlined with silk organza, and when I'm reincarnated as a bombshell, Silk Organza's going to be my stripper name.

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  6. Ooh that's lovely! Cathy will look fabulous!

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  7. Looks so very elegant. I can see it in chiffon. You can buy a special sewing foot for very light weight fabrics. It grips the fabric and stops it from going through the feed dogs. I love chiffon. The drapes will look gorgeous if you choose to make this style. Cathy will be high class. Whatever you choose, can't wait to see.

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  8. Navy silk chiffon, lined with bright lime green silk. Boom.

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  9. The shoulder drapes look a little crazy. I like it! :-)

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  10. All that gathering will help with Cathy's flat chested-ness

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  11. How about purple and green silk chiffon?

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  12. So gorgeous! Cathy is one lucky lady! I know you will make something amazing!

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  13. I foresee Cathy channelling Doris Day for the photo shoot. (With you as Rock?)

    Spud.

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  14. If Cathy goes for a contour wrap she'll likely lose 1" for a few days :)

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  15. I do hope that you have measured Cathy. Pattern sizes, like dress sizes, are not the same today as they were in 1961. A size 16 in 1961 will more closely measure to a size 12 -- maybe even a 10 -- in 2014. This pattern does not look so very complicated to alert. That might be the real next challenge -- pattern sizing and alteration. Good luck. I enjoy reading about your adventures in sewing.

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    1. True...Cathy hasn't had a 28" waist since....1980?

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  16. Hi Peter, I'm new to your blog. Live in Australia - Central Coast of NSW so, little in common with a hip New Yorker. Been a home sewer for years though and love your blog. The dress you are making for Cathy is very like the one I made my daughter for her wedding in 2006. Now I am looking for a pattern to make my 30 yr old son a jacket. He's a professional jazz musician so needs a 'hip New Yorker' jacket not one that looks like it was made by his mum (mom). I was given a very old piece of camel coloured pure cashmere and want to line it with a 'loud silk' at his request. Any suggestions? Patterns are hard to find as you know.

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  17. PS the son I am sewing the jacket for got married last year and I made the bride maid dresses. No taffeta or chiffon in sight. The bride bought a vintage lace night dress and made a silk petticoat. I made four simple dresses out of vintage floral sheets. I was nervous but it all looked amazing!

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    1. You can try a number of things. If you know your son's chest size in inches, you can try a vintage pattern. I recommend a late-Sixties pattern like Simplicity 8368. I've used it for two jackets and it's more contemporary than even in-print Vogue suit patterns, imo. The fit is lean without excessive ease.

      https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/173632998/1960s-simplicity-8368-uncut-vintage?ref=sr_gallery_22&ga_search_query=pattern+mens+blazer+60s&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=GB&ga_search_type=all

      It's not going to be easy to find in every size. There are many just like it though. You can also look on eBay. Search under "vintage men's jacket pattern." (Also "suit")

      Burda and Vogue are, of course, also possibilities. You'd have to see what's in print.

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    2. This Burda looks good and it's cheap and multi-sized.

      https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/163365026/new-burda-mans-suits-pattern-7194-uncut?ref=sr_gallery_2&ga_search_query=burda+suit+pattern+mens&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=GB&ga_search_type=all

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    3. No worries Peter Rabbit. Thanks.

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  18. Great find! I had a dress with a shoulder drape that I bought at a vintage shop and wore to my wedding rehearsal. I felt just like Audrey Hepburn.

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  19. I just want to say Thank You!- I read an article on your blog about a singer featherweight about 2 years ago. Since then, I purchased a featherweight, and long story short- made a 1950's dress for my anniversary which was posted onto Facebook, which lead to clients, which lead to me working for a couple of vintage clothing stores offering my alterations services. This amazing little machine is paying my way through university, and I am in the last year of an honours program of a psychology degree. Where would I be without your advice or this great little machine? It is amazing how one article can set the ball rolling for something much bigger. Cathie

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    1. That's great,Cathie -- thanks for letting me know!

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