A Second Stab at Vogue 8889: The Butter Shirt

Having taken a hiatus for a couple of weeks, readers, it is time to start sewing again!

There are two garments I want to complete this week: long white linen pants and a butter-colored (or is it Parkay?) cotton short-sleeve shirt.



For the shirt, I've decided to take another crack at V8889, the new Vogue men's shirt pattern.  (You can read some reviews of it here.)  The first time I sewed it I redrafted it, you'll recall, so that it was narrower in the shoulders and wider in the waist and hips (I'd originally cut a 34" even though my normal size is 36").  The final version, white cotton with a contrasting inner collar, came out cute but a bit snug in the upper chest (pecs, you know).  Good thing it's a summer shirt because I can't button the top button without pull lines appearing.



This time I decided to add a little width all around by using a 1/2" seam allowance on my six side seams (side, side back, and side front) instead of 5/8".  If my math is correct, that means a difference of 1.5" total extra ease.  As a result the shirt is a bit looser, while still relatively fitted.





I cut my back yokes on the bias.  The pattern has you cut the yokes parallel to the selvage, but there's a gentle curve at the top of the back and it's very difficult to ease the back if it's cut that way; there's no give.  I think last time I cheated by eliminating most of the curve at the top of the back where it attaches to the yoke, making the back very flat.

I decided to do the inside collar in gray cotton shirting, both for contrast and so I won't worry so much about ring around the collar.  When I topstitched around the outer collar, I used yellow thread on top and put gray thread in my bobbin.







Can I say a word about this cotton fabric?  It's subtly satiny on the right side (even after laundering; it's not just a glaze) and the texture is almost like very thin flannel, i.e., brushed.  It's super soft to the touch but harder to work with than regular men's shirting -- it's more pillowy.  The stitches really sink into the fabric too, making it extremely difficult to pick out the odd stitch when necessary.



I did true flat-felled seams on the armholes, but the side seams are simply serged (the seam allowances I mean) and stitched down.





Here's a peek at the finished collar -- I'm saving the big reveal for an upcoming photo shoot when I'll wear it with my linen pants -- at least that's the plan.  My favorite feature of V8889 is the covered front button band -- very elegant and minimalist.  It's actually easier to make than the uncovered band!







That's all for today, friends.  I do hope your sewing projects are going swimmingly.

In closing, what are your thoughts about butter?  When I was growing up everybody I knew thought margarine was better for you, but I've since switched to butter and never looked back.  Who needs all those additives?

Have a great day, everybody!

Summer colors...