First, friends, let me just say that I haven't watched the Oscars, otherwise known as The Academy Awards, in more than a decade. I don't care anymore, now that the big stars are gone, plus I never go to the movies anyway. It's that simple.
What I do do, however, is follow Oscars fashion, which requires no more investment than a minute and a half on one of those brain-dead sites like the Yahoo.com homepage the following morning. Add a few sewing/fashion blogs and your research is done.
Over at Lilacs & Lace, I picked up something about Angelina Jolie sticking her leg out and I will say she looked awful doing it. Not to sound too much like an old queen -- and I'm not talking Elizabeth II -- but let's face it: you can dress these girls up but you can't give them class. Most actresses today couldn't carry off, say, a vintage Charles James gown if they tried and some have tried and failed, badly.
The Oscars are all about the stylists and clothing designers, not the actresses, who seem all too willing to abdicate their individuality. It's about marketing ("Who are you wearing?") and that's why it's ultimately boring. Give me Cher in a Bob Mackie feathered headdress any day.
But today I want to talk about peplum gowns. Apparently they're back, or they will be very soon thanks to the likes of Tiny Fey and Michelle Williams, or rather, their stylists. I think it's fair to say that if you have curves, this gown can be very flattering. If you don't, you look like a toilet brush -- or is that the mermaid gown? Anyway, it's for an hourglass figure.
We last saw the peplum in the Eighties and it hasn't been missed, but guess what? It's back. You know how I feel about the Eighties but nevertheless I had to share the nausea:
And while we're regurgitating the Eighties, can we talk about Best Actress Meryl Streep and her gold Lanvin?
Hello, McCall's Nolan Miller Dynasty Collection!
But I digress. Not one to miss a trend -- even one I don't like -- I immediately snatched up this vintage 80's Butterick on eBay (yes, I know, I violated my New Year's resolution), just in case Cathy wants to give it a try. (I predict a run on this pattern starting....now.)
Gamine Cathy is hardly an hourglass, but thankfully Steinlauf & Stoller sells hip pads, along with pretty much any other figure-enhancing pad you might need.
In closing, readers, this could have been a Yea or Nay post but I just did one of those last week. And I vaguely remember Gretchen talking peplums last year, though I'm too lazy to check. I say Nay to the peplum but as you can see, I'm not above going against my own taste and jumping on the Oscar night-induced bandwagon. I'm only human.
Any pent-up peplum-related (or any other Oscar gown-related) feelings you need to get off your chest? Here's your chance!
Who looked fabulous -- and what's with that leg-thrusting Angelina?
You know Gretchen's Starlet Suit Jacket (Craftsy course) is a 40s inspired peplum too...
ReplyDeleteSh*t. Now I'm in for it.
DeletePeplums make you look like you've got something to hide (a baby bump, a weapon, maybe a whole bunch of bananas....). I think each of those three Oscar dresses would look much better sans peplum. Also, Angelina's leg thrust was odd given she's already such a big star — does she really need the attention that badly??
ReplyDeleteDoes this mean that shoulder pads will soon follow? Not that I mind that, actually. And peplums only seem to work (I think) when there is a pretty extensive difference in circumference between the waistline and the hips. I also think that they do not work on folks who are short-waisted. Just my thought (ok..my eyes are still burning from the beige beaded couch cover that Melissa Macarthy wore last night - she's done much better before both from the color and shape aspect..).
ReplyDeleteNOT a fan of the peplum gown. As a member of the "I have curves" club I don't see why I would ever want to stick a huge ruffle on the widest part of my body? I mean, paniers hoops I get - it makes your waist look small. But these poofy peplums? Make your butt look big. It breaks up the line of the dress and I don't like it. Like you stuck a clown collar around your waist. Ugh. (Note: I think peplums can look cool on a jacket if they are cut well, but these dress peplums are not something I care to see).
ReplyDeleteAngelina Jolie - the leg = tacky and looks broken. Actually, I just didn't even like the dress - it looked angular, awkward, and (dare I say) like it was made from Home Dec fabric. Her disjointed body posture didn't help with the overall appearance.
Dresses I loved - basically is comes down to sparkle, sparkle, and more sparkle. Although I though some of the sequined dresses looked cheap or ill fitting, there were some fabulous sequined dresses at the awards. Nearly all of my favorites were covered with sparkles.
I didn't see the Oscars (haven't been inside a movie theater in ages, it gives me migraines), but I love the day-after fashion reports! And, as an hourglass lady who came of age in the '80s, I'm doubly glad for the Return of the Peplum. That style looks divine on me, so I guess I can buy an off-the-rack evening gown soon, instead of having to design my own ;-)
ReplyDeleteLike anything else done correctly and in moderation, peplums can be a good fashion variation--especially in a well cut jacket.
ReplyDeleteI just read The Dreamstress' critique on the yeas and nays, it's a good one! Never noticed the peplum look, which I like generally but those three dresses above are like the threemonkeys of boredom - See no style, hear no style, speak no style. Meh!
ReplyDeleteThis post is so good. You made me laugh :-). Angelina look vulgar while sticking her leg out. Her dress was OK, but I have seen her in more sleek and elegant gowns. The only dress and actress I thought was dashingly elegant, was Gweneth Paltrow. Tom Ford really nailed it with that style. Oh la la !!
ReplyDeleteWhat does a hip pad look like and how do you attach it? If you do buy one (or do they come in sets?), please post a photo.
ReplyDeleteI'm guessing it gets sewn into the dress. ???
DeleteYou'll find a photo here:
http://www.steinlaufandstoller.com/Bra%20Cups.htm
I thought hip pads were tied around the waist (similar to a bustle) and the dress went on over them. Then again, having very wide hips, this isn't something I've really looked into.
DeleteI believe those were called panniers. I think the pads I saw at Steinlauf and Stoller may be butt pads.
DeleteHuh. I'll be interested in what you come up with. I'm now also remembering in the magazines of my youth, pads for buttocks/hips that were part of a panty or girdle. I don't know if those have been superseded. Probably.
DeleteHi Pete.... That store with the hip pads is just amazing!!!! Every sewing need all in one place...... It seems like they only sell in bulk..presumably to other sewing shops.... But do you know if they do retail and international retail....:) I mean seriously I have never seen such a fabulous range og habadaschery in my life!!! Or are you lucky enough just to be able to buy over the counter??? And if you are ..I am seriously jealous! :)
DeleteLou x
I’m a huge Oscar fan. This is my Super Bowl. I gather up the popcorn and soda and tell the DH that the remote control belongs to me for the night. He is welcome to watch with me, but don’t make me miss any of the important “plays.” For example, one of non-acting winners openly mocked Angelina by striking the same pose when he took the stage to accept his award. Priceless.
ReplyDeleteThere was much noise about Angelina’s leg, but what about her arm? Eighties Barbie, anyone? I think Jennifer Lopez showed way too much bosom.
A hostess from Good Day America actually said that she was being paid to ask, so she had to ask, “Who are you wearing?” No one is even pretending anymore.
I agree that a peplum in a well cut jacket, and kept in proportion, can be flattering for some. Tina Fey’s was too big and made her look like she was pregnant, ruining an otherwise good overall look.
So true on the Angelina leg!
ReplyDeleteI was noticing Lea Michele's awkward leg poses at earlier awards shows. Cringeworthy!
http://www.sugarscape.com/main-topics/fashion-beauty/608089/celeb-trend-sexy-leg-splits
Angelina's pose actually reminded me of my BFF, who has a tendency to need to put all her weight on one leg (which most of us do during long standing periods anyhow). I think the pose looked ridiculous because she had to exaggerate it due to the way her dress was cut; it would have draped awkwardly if she hadn't gotten the slit in the right place. The problem here seems to be a poorly cut gown rather than any intention to grandstand.
ReplyDeleteI like peplums on jackets and to a lesser degree, on pencil skirts. I don't think they work on dresses.
oh you don't like peplums? I do! and I liked the color and the fabric of Meryl Streep's dress, although it wasn't as sleek as I'd have preferred. I thought Tina Fey looked amazingly awesome in her gown, but Michelle Williams' gown was a little to boxy or something. I also liked what George Clooney's date wore.
ReplyDeleteThat ole Gwynneth Paltrow is just tooo J.Crew for me.
And you know, I am pretty J.Crew.
Oh, I had some peplums outfits back in the 80's. I was a fashion victim but I had the body to do it. If I wear a peplum shirt today it won't look right on me. I do have a peplum pattern on my vintage collection. I will look for it today. :)
ReplyDeleteI've been eyeing peplums for a good six months at least, but so far haven't really liked most of the versions I've seen on the runway and in ready to wear, and these Oscar gowns are no exception. I haaaaaate the look of a peplum with a straight skirt, as it flatters neither the waist nor the hips. I also think the vast majority of the peplums I've seen in the past year have been way too long and droopy. They do look very 80s to me -- but I think cut right, a peplum can look wonderfully 40s retro, and emphasize (or create the illusion of) a small waist. In particular, I've had Vogue 1169 ( http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1169-products-10769.php?page_id=865 ) in my stash for a month or three now, and I'm looking forward to making it. My plan is to pair it with a full skirt (with petticoats), and maybe even shorten the peplum length a bit so it doesn't overwhelm my short-waisted, 5'2" self. But these Oscar peplums? I come down solidly on the nay side. Sad droopy little ruffled curtains on your hips? No thank you.
ReplyDeleteMr. Lappin hits on one of my pet peeves. The Oscar red-carpet has become all about hocking designer gowns, shoes, and jewelry. It seems like the most popular question that is asked of these celebrities is “who are you wearing?” Robin Roberts of GMA even confessed that she was required to ask as someone was walking away from her microphone. Quite frankly, I could care less who made the darn thing. I will certainly ooh and aahh over a gorgeous gown as much as the next fashion obsessed guy or gal, but unless it is a new and unknown name who could actually use the publicity, I don’t need to hear it. Do Versace, Armani, Vuitton, or Dior really need any more publicity? – I think not.
ReplyDeleteCate Blanchett and Tilda Swinton usually push the limits of fashion, but I never saw them on the red carpet last night (were they in attendance at any of the parties this year?) and they were greatly missed. Even if their looks are not for me, I appreciate the effort and the fact that they stay true to their personal style.
As far as the whole peplum trend, I must say that I have reservations. Don’t get me wrong, a peplum from the 1940s (NOT 1980s - tell Cathy to try a 1940s version!) is my idea of heaven, and the perfect outfit for a bloated belly day. However, I am not a fan of dressing the same as everyone else, and I hope that knock-off versions of these dresses that filter down to mass retailers don’t ruin the look for me.
And I realize I am probably going to offend quite a few people who are Angelina Jolie fans, but that pose she kept striking throughout the evening looked more like hooker on Hollywood Boulevard than a movie star on the red carpet covering said Boulevard. I was horrified as I saw her “prepare” for the cameras: she jutted the hip, thrust the leg forward, and actually yanked the dress in the opposite direction to make sure every scrawny inch of thigh was visible. A hint of thigh may be sexy, NOT the entire length of leg, from ankle to unmentionables. Can’t we see the gown on, say, Amy Adams? Because I really think the dress was spectacular . . .
I have to agree about the Angelina leg out...I thought it looked very lame...that strike a pose was just too much for me...altho I did like her dress. I was tearing apart a sweater so I had the show on and personally it ws boring except for cirq du Solie (sp?) that was cool. :)
ReplyDeleteI've been seeing peplums everywhere lately, and I love it! Thinking about making a gown with one myself.
ReplyDeleteAs for Angelina's ridiculous leg thrust thing (I mean, really, honey, we don't need to see how emaciated the rest of you is), I think the guys that she handed the award off to on stage had it right when they took time out of their speech to mock her MERCILESSLY.
That was the second-best moment of the night for me. Second to Jean Dujardin's speech, where he clearly researched the history of the Oscars and couldn't stop smiling!
I watched a bit the The Oscars last night, but since I had not seen ANY of the movies, I became rather disinterested. I missed the whole Angelina leg thrust thing. I am also just finding out that Meryl won for best actress. I have served her and her husband many times in the restaurant and I really love her. She is kind and unassuming in person.I have this skirt with a triple back peplum that I wore to a wedding in the early 80's...I'm sure it would never fit but maybe I could resurrect it.
ReplyDeleteI don't watch the Oscars and have no eye for fashion but there are some dresses I have liked. I do remember a dress that Julia Roberts wore many years ago, at the time it was a vintage dress that she wore. I really like the vintage era of the Academy Awards.
ReplyDeleteI think Meryl Streep looked terrific in her gown.
ReplyDeleteMs. Jolie looked very cheap with her leg sticking out photo after photo- also I am not sure that it's appropriate to pose with one's inlaws with the leg sticking out like that.
I like peplums on jackets and shirts. But sometimes they are certainly terrible. 80s peplums are no good. I like Michelle Williams gown.
ReplyDeleteHa- perhaps it's all the time I spend perusing 1940s pattern art but I adore these gowns and peplums generally! The more angled 80s peplums (pepla?) not so much, but I really like the simple horizontal play on volume in the Fey/Williams examples. Possibly it's because I'm a gal with Cathy-like proportions, and I dig the possibilities of a peplum to add a little extra hip interest into the silhouette.
ReplyDeleteI am quite surprised Pete.... That you are a little behind the times about the peplum being back....lol.... The 2012 Spring Summer and the latest Fall Winter Runway is full of them.....:) there are some great vintage (1940's) inspired modern versions out there.... I have to agree with some one above that they do look better on jacket rather than a long dress ... Just my personal opinion....:) oh and I definitely don't think that Cathy needs hips to wear one.... Check out the runways and see how great a peplum looks on those models.. And not many of them have "hips" :) I would love to wear a peplum but alas with a little age and a slightly "mature " figure I am not yet sure but have been desperately searing for a version I can / could wear...:) definitely great for Race Fashion.... Formal Day Wear is becoming very difficult to achieve and still be stylish..... But thank goodness Lady Like and this includes the peplum is back!!!! :) but I am definitely off to check out those hip pads....:) not that I need them.... Lol... But out of sheer curiosity and I didn't know such things existed....:) wish they could make slim pads.... Ha ha I soo wish!
ReplyDeleteLou xx
Just a couple example of lots of Modern "Vintage Inspired" Peplums already on the runways... :) Of course there are other styles in there as well.... but yes the Peplum is back! And some of these are very wearable...:)
Deletehttp://www.vogue.com/collections/spring-2012-couture/christian-dior/review/#/collection/runway/spring-2012-couture/christian-dior/23
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2011/couture/chanel#
Excuse me!!!! A nice little well-placed peplum can definitely enhance the less well endowed lower body. I saw a little sweater jacket with a small peplum in the store yesterday, very, very flattering.
ReplyDeleteLarge peplums on the other hand, yuck.
oh boy, the first and last time i wore a peplum was in the mid 80s to my eldest brother's wedding. It was exactly like that McCalls 3904 pattern (version B but in sky blue with short sleeves & a belt). Whilst i would probably never wear a peplum again (never say never) i've got to say that when i did wear that dress i thought it was very flattering.
ReplyDeleteI quite like a peplum on the right figure. I really hope Cathy says yes to it!
I have two whole crates of 80's patterns given to me by a friend (and I can't bear to throw them away) so if these styles come back in fashion, I'll be ahead of the crowd! I'm a member of the 'have hips don't need peplum' brigade, but I have seen some lovely jackets with a peplum that is small in front and longer in back which seem quite nice. We've had a resurgence of high-waisted pants and skirts, so I'm sure we'll get a lot of peplums this coming season.
ReplyDeleteDH complained loud and long about Angelina's leg. He thinks she's too skinny to be showing them to anyone. I didn't see many dresses that I liked last night. They looked too matronly. There were a few that were nice, but just a few.
ReplyDeletei didn't mind the peplum dresses, i thought michelle williams was second best dressed there - number one was penelope cruz, that powder blue gown was just dreamy.
ReplyDeletebut i find awards fashion tends to be so boring, and the oscars was no different. it seemed like 40% of the women were wearing white or cream. nobody seemed to want to do anything not completely safe. dull dull dull dull dull. the golden globes had much more interesting dresses, with my favourites being sarah michelle gellar http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m4kF0Szy4Bk/TxOD7D4DUoI/AAAAAAAAAf0/p8YeDNQAtg4/s1600/Sarah-Michelle-Gellar-Pictures-Golden-Globes-2012.jpg
tilda swinton http://cdn.buzznet.com/media-cdn/jj1/headlines/2012/01/tilda-swinton-globes.jpg
and evan rachel wood http://media4.onsugar.com/files/2012/01/02/0/192/1922153/5afab8abfd5591ce_EVAN-RACHEL-WOOD.xxxlarge_0.jpg
the sort of outrageous fabulousness of those three gowns was missing at the oscars, making it all a bit forgettable.
Back then, my sister and I shared a red dress with peplum. We both looked hot in it. Now we both illustrate the maxim "If you wore it the last time it was fashionable, don't go there now!"
ReplyDeleteA peplum on a jacket is OK, on a dress - not so much, IMHO. At least on a jacket it has the function of giving more room over the hips to the bottom garment.
ReplyDeleteI missed all the Oscar shows (before, during, after), so I can't comment on Ms Jolie or anyone else's dress or posing. Yet.
Great post Peter! I do like peplum on jackets, but on skirts and dresses not.
ReplyDeleteAngelina: vulgar and unatractive.
Best dress: Natalie Portman's vintage Dior!
Oscars? No thanks, these weirdos must not be encouraged. Maybe Angelia had one of her children hiding under that dress, thus no room for the leg. Definitely no class! The best dress was Gwyneth's. It reminded me of the gown and cape Bette Davis wore in Now, Voyager. The cape is incredibly elegant a and understated. The rest of those folks are just mules dressed up un horse harness.
ReplyDeleteThe reason that JLo's gown almost took a timble is obvious to any expereince sewer: she had it cut low BOTH front AND back. That is a recipe for wardrobe malfunction unless you put loops under the arms to keep the dress on the shoulders! Otherwise as soon as one bends forward or otherwise relaxes the tension on the dress bodice (and you will notice JLo was standing very straight on the red carpet!) the shoulders of the dress will fall off the shoulders of the person! It was a stunning dress, though; I thought it one of the most beautiful.
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, Angelina just goes to show it's no use gold-leafing a turd. I have never thought she was sexy in anything but still photos. When I saw that only-too-obvious posturing on the red carpet, and that slutty leg-out pose with her in-laws, I thought: "You can lead a horticulture but you can't make her think..."
My dear mother made me that Butterick pattern in my hey-day - in a rather fetching sea-green. I was rather partial to a peplum. In those days my waistline was a size smaller than my hips, and I thought the peplum did a good job of hiding my hips. Am I thrilled they are back though? not really, justnonplussed.
ReplyDeleteOh,Justgail, I deeply recommmend taking a look at Angelina's "Me Bloody Leg!" thrust clip; it's only a few seconds out of your life, after all, and...>leans forward confidentially< I will tell you a secret: if you want to get the full effect of the gesture you should watch the (mercifully brief) clip with the volume turned down to zero! That way one is not distracted by background noise or voice-over cloudinging one's thought processes.
ReplyDeleteI have just seen the latest evolution of the peplum and before I comment on it you must keep in mind that Yves St Laurent was a potent influence in the late seventies; if I recall correctly, I am am pretty sure it was HE, YSL, ho put the 'pep' in the peplum at the time!
I was looking at Canadian Elle mag, and i saw two versions of this so-called peplum revival. I can do hope the pattern conglomeration isn't planning to sign any of those designers on any time soon, the designers need execution, not the designs! looks ing at these, one can understand the fear and loathing; but it is, after all, just another design element, nothing more or less. there are women who suit a peplum very well and there are those that don't . There were very few people that actually looked good in those perilous "refrigerator repairman" jeans but that fact didn't stop anyone, as we got to see for ourselves, didn't we?