Good morning, friends. No niceties today; there's work to be done.
Yesterday I applied bias trim to the neckline and front of my lace redingote. I cut my own 1" wide bias tape from black polished cotton (this is the famous bolt I found in the street in October 2009 which inspired me to make Cathy's LBD, launching a remarkable modeling career and strange partnership). I stitched the pieces together and applied it like a Hong Kong finish, which makes it a little thinner (3 layers of fabric instead of the 4 layers you'd have using double fold bias tape) and easier to apply.
The stitching isn't perfect but it's fine. I may buy a few yards of black lace trim -- I envision something scalloped -- and stitch that to the edge; we'll see. Gilding the lily?
I trimmed the back darts and attached the bodice to skirt with the same bias tape. It's not officially stay tape (all these different tapes make my eyes cross), but this nylon lace is not going to stretch and I wouldn't care if it did. It looks fragile but it's quite sturdy.
I traced a slip pattern using the Seventies Vogue pattern I showed you yesterday. This was trickier than I thought it would be. We'll see how it looks sewn up.
This will be a six-paneled slip. The front piece (far right) and back piece (far left) are cut on the fold. The slip will be green taffeta. Or is it blue? Michael calls it turquoise.
Hey, I forgot to show you the patterns I bought on Sunday at the flea market, all from 1949-50 and uncut:
For the afternoon tea/pool party at the Van Johnsons...
Ladies Library Auxiliary luncheon (won't Helen be jealous)...
Rotary dinner dance... (This one's a 38" and will have to be graded down -- or Cathy will have to inflate.)
These weren't $1 patterns, sadly, but rather three for $20, which is still a pretty good deal compared to most things on Etsy.
We're out of time, sadly, but tune in tomorrow for more lace and taffeta glamour.
Happy Wednesday, everybody!
UPDATE AND QUESTION @ 11:20 am:
OK, I've cut all my taffeta. I'm not sure if I'm lining this or not. Here's the deal: The taffeta frays. I need to finish the seam allowances. Even unfinished seam allowances will show through the front if I press (I tested), so I'm going to have to press (carefully) each side with something between the seam allowance and the fabric itself, or move the allowances to the side.
Question: If this were going to be lined I'd leave the seam allowances as-is (and if it is lined it will only be the bodice) but if I don't and just use a facing up top, I have to finish all the seam allowances.
I'd serge, but with all those curves I'm afraid I'll cut off too much fabric in my attempt to keep the stitching on the edge. So I'm overcasting -- before I start sewing. I have much more control overcasting, and I'm doing it all the way around each fabric piece.
Does that sound right? Thanks, guys!
The lace is looking good! I love your blue fabric (I'd of called it Teal or maybe Petrol Blue?). And the little green jacket on the Advance 5119 pattern would look lovely on Cathy's lithe limbs! :)
ReplyDeleteWow, I love that second pattern. Those huge sleeves are very exciting. I've not seen anything like that from the fifties before.
ReplyDeleteI love the pool party pattern, how fabulous to just layer back up from that, 3 outfits in one pattern!
ReplyDeleteI am just so excited to see it finished! I wish the kids would let me have more time to sew during the day; I sew mostly at night and I feel like some sort of Cinderella vampire stitching in my basement at 10:00pm. You totally inspired me to go for my chiffon overlay pattern. Think cream colored chiffon, tic-tac sized black velvet stars sprinkled on it and a slip of a yet undetermined color underneath. Would a black slip be tacky under a cream overlay? Hhhmmmm...
ReplyDeleteI love what you're working on these days - I keep hitting my refresh button, hoping you've updated since last time I did so....
ReplyDeleteOh, those patterns are so "I Love Lucy", when Ricky goes to Hollywood! She wore a black lace gown, similar to the first pattern, but with skinny black pants, in one of the episodes. I have always loved that outfit! I think the bias on your bodice looks beautiful, and you could add lace without it seeming overdone. I can't wait to see that gorgeous turqouise under the black lace...
ReplyDeleteYes, yes, when she melted her nose meeting William Holden!
ReplyDeleteUtterly Gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteHave you ever looked at Patternrescue.com? Admittedly, you have to wait until they are ready with a new set to distribute, but I've gotten some great patterns from them for only the cost of shipping!
The redingcote is gorgeous. I vote for keeping the edges clean-lined and free of more lace--too busy with a lace trim, elegant without it.
ReplyDeleteThose patterns are all wonderful, but the pool party one calls to me most strongly; I used to have the figure for it when I was young. I always went for the clothes that showed off my waist. Ahh....memories... :) It's also cute they included the lingerie.
Treadle, I thought that was a bikini top!
ReplyDeleteI don't want Cathy to make a fool of herself when she strips down and dives in.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you have more restraint than I have. I'd be in those "chock full o' glitter" trim stores on W38th buying all sorts of stuff to stick on this creation. I'm loving this project!
ReplyDeleteI am loving it too. I love black lace...and the satin underneath is going to be smashing. You may just have to find another Broadway opening to be invited to so you can show it off...or perhaps tea at the Plaza or Ritz.
ReplyDeleteOh, wow, Peter! The dress is coming along really nicely and looks beautiful! Cathy will be radiant, as always. :) Love the new patterns. :)
ReplyDeleteIf you decide to finish your seams with a serger, you can can always disengage the blade to avoid cutting off too much.
ReplyDeleteThe black lace is beautiful and your edging came out lovely. Those patterns made me wish I had a waistline to show off, but since I am 3 months pregnant I figure it is going to be at least 18 more months before I see my waist again. (sigh)
ReplyDeleteon your serger, if you can, drop the cutting blade. You can then serge worry free about losing too much fabric.
ReplyDeleteYou could underline the top with some thin flannel and that will help soften the look of your seam allowances, although you will still have to press ever so carefully either.
@ Jenny Wren: Those are "Bishop's sleeves", and they look very alluring in a sheer fabric.
ReplyDeletePeter,
Those patterns are fantabulous!!!
Testosterone
I think it is a swimsuit? I'm not sure, but I think that even if it's not, done with the right fabric it can be! Oh, and I ADORE that gown with the peplum, oh my Cathy would look like a dream in that!
ReplyDeleteSo nice to run into you today, Peter! You'll be pleased to know I snipped that errant thread within seconds of arriving back in my office.
ReplyDeleteI think you are on the right track with overcasting (or following Regena's suggestion). I've never worked with taffeta, but pre-finishing with an overcast stitch worked for me on a particularly ravel-ly wool or cotton blend once.
I love the buttons up the front in that last pattern!
ReplyDeleteI don't think the extra lace is necessary. It seems like it might push it over the line from elegant to fussy.
You definitely scored with the vintage patterns, I am so envious. I love your outfit so far, it is going to be very elegant. One suggestion for the taffeta, instead of overcasting the seams, you could serge all exposed edges, then you could still make alterations as needed. As for pressing the taffeta, have you tried using a pressing cloth placed up against the seam allowance as you press. It may alleviate the "ridge" on the right side. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteI think the extra lace trim will look too fussy and unmatched on the redingote. I like the neat finish of the bias tape. The lace trim might look nice on the slip's neckline or hem, to bring the pieces together visually.
ReplyDeleteI am loving this black lace number. I can't wait to see the finished product. I agree, you don't need the extra lace. However, you don't really know until it is all done, it might look fabulous.
ReplyDeleteLove your patterns that you got, they are gorgeous.
I still prefer the plain trim on the redingoat, but I think whoFilet's idea of lace on the slip is worth a try. Cathy might then be able to wear the slip on its own for lounging at home?
ReplyDelete